If anyone is interested it is possible to expand your table to a 4ft by 5ft cutting area. I changed out my 3/8 lead screws to the 1/2 inch lead screws just like the x axes. The modification wasn’t too bad just new 2x2 tubing and another set of water tables from langmuir. So far no problems with cutting at 250 ipm. Still working on the table drains and new slats for the water table. I also made lead screw covers so i don’t lean on the lead screws. Its a work in progress.
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Well done. I’d have gone with a one piece or two piece welded out of 16ga or 18ga mild steel with a paint job on the outside. Cheaper than the stainless, and less chance of leakage from the multiple joints (I increased my stock X, Y, to a skosh over 3x4 and added 3" to Z on a one piece oversized pan 35gallon cap)
What was your cost of materials total?
Leadscrews, nuts, bearing blocks, pans…
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I’m just under $600 for all the parts. The lead screws came from McMaster Carr and the nuts and water pan are from Langmuir. The 2x2 square is from a local supplier.
I will echo the “I woulda” on the water table. While you were doing all of it, shouldacoulda removed seams (leak paths) and simplified the drain/fill system, as well as making the table deeper, possibly giving you more amp-ability / partial covering of your work for oxidation protection on certain materials.
Good call on upping the thickness on the Y lead screws, whipping would have been my major concern. Only other option would have been to go for rack/pinion drives.
The 1/2 inch screws seem to be doing well with no whipping. I welded the water table so no leaks at this point.
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Using different lead screws, what’d you do for the tabs that bolt into the square tubes?
Or did you buy them with a smaller diameter at the shaft end?
If I recall, the shaft used for the coupler is 1/4" and although I know you can buy couplers in different sizes on each end, wondering what specific parts you used? Unless you’re keeping those specific details to yourself on purpose?
I took my lead screws to my local machine shop and had them turn the ends down to 1/4 inch so i could use the same bearing supports and couplers.
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That makes a lot of sense. Cause I was like…if using 1/2" rod, I don’t think they’d offer them with such small rod ends.
Just off subject, as I am usually prescribed here, and thinking that the insides of most garages look the same.
That looks like my garage. The door is close to identical. Anyway, good on ya’ for the build and using local shops for use cases.
Seth
Im definitely doing this upgrade.
Is the 2X2 plated or stainless?
Thanks
Galvanized 2x2.
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Great mix of sources
Thank you. Great work
. Cant wait to up grade mine