If anyone is interested it is possible to expand your table to a 4ft by 5ft cutting area. I changed out my 3/8 lead screws to the 1/2 inch lead screws just like the x axes. The modification wasn’t too bad just new 2x2 tubing and another set of water tables from langmuir. So far no problems with cutting at 250 ipm. Still working on the table drains and new slats for the water table. I also made lead screw covers so i don’t lean on the lead screws. Its a work in progress.
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Well done. I’d have gone with a one piece or two piece welded out of 16ga or 18ga mild steel with a paint job on the outside. Cheaper than the stainless, and less chance of leakage from the multiple joints (I increased my stock X, Y, to a skosh over 3x4 and added 3" to Z on a one piece oversized pan 35gallon cap)
What was your cost of materials total?
Leadscrews, nuts, bearing blocks, pans…
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I’m just under $600 for all the parts. The lead screws came from McMaster Carr and the nuts and water pan are from Langmuir. The 2x2 square is from a local supplier.
I will echo the “I woulda” on the water table. While you were doing all of it, shouldacoulda removed seams (leak paths) and simplified the drain/fill system, as well as making the table deeper, possibly giving you more amp-ability / partial covering of your work for oxidation protection on certain materials.
Good call on upping the thickness on the Y lead screws, whipping would have been my major concern. Only other option would have been to go for rack/pinion drives.
The 1/2 inch screws seem to be doing well with no whipping. I welded the water table so no leaks at this point.
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Using different lead screws, what’d you do for the tabs that bolt into the square tubes?
Or did you buy them with a smaller diameter at the shaft end?
If I recall, the shaft used for the coupler is 1/4" and although I know you can buy couplers in different sizes on each end, wondering what specific parts you used? Unless you’re keeping those specific details to yourself on purpose?
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I took my lead screws to my local machine shop and had them turn the ends down to 1/4 inch so i could use the same bearing supports and couplers.
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That makes a lot of sense. Cause I was like…if using 1/2" rod, I don’t think they’d offer them with such small rod ends.
Just off subject, as I am usually prescribed here, and thinking that the insides of most garages look the same.
That looks like my garage. The door is close to identical. Anyway, good on ya’ for the build and using local shops for use cases.
Seth
Im definitely doing this upgrade.
Is the 2X2 plated or stainless?
Thanks
Galvanized 2x2.
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Great mix of sources
Thank you. Great work
. Cant wait to up grade mine
Starting a Parts list ***** Am I missing any parts? *****
$?.?? (Qty 4) (80" length) 2x2-14ga Galvanized Square Tubing (Contacting my local supplier in the morning) (51.5" + added cut length 30") ← Pb1011 how long are your rails?
$?.?? (Qty 1) 2x2 (63 13/16" length) 14ga steel tubing for cross bar
$0.00 (Qty 2) 2x2 (28 5/16" length) repurposed 2x2 from the original rails
$90 (Qty 2) Leed screws Fast-Travel, Right-Hand, 1/2"-10 Thread, 6 Feet Long, 5:1 Speed ACME lead screw
$100 (Qty 1) 14ga 48"x96" sheet of mild steel
$50 (Qty 2) 1# High temp powder coat
$55.00 (Qty 3) x axis lead nuts (getting 1 extra as a back up
*** Water table plans ***
***** Probably the best water table set up I have seen *****
Bansheeman213
Does anyone have a better example of a water table or upgrades I should include?
I’m going to do a single piece table, powder coated with a Prismatic high temp powder (rated for 950 degrees). I’m also going to do all the upgrades Bansheeman213 did.
?? Stanchions ??
I was thinking about making the Stanchion plates taller.
— Any thoughts on that? It would give more room to make the water pan deeper and more room to cut taller items if not using the slates (retangle tube and round pipe.
After reading many post definately increasing the stancions by at least 2".
— Any thoughts reason to go more than 2"?
Thanks for any help with this. I have a batch of metal to cut over the next several weeks. I’m going to start getting these parts purchased. I will build my table last so that it is no longer than needed and document the process in a new post which I will add a link here.
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I’d go with a better quality lead screw. You will want a multi start for less backlash.
If you are using the OEM lead screw nut on the carriage, you need to match the rod to that.
If you are upping the size then you need to mach the pitch to the OEM, or be prepared to change the stepper motor settings.
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Or just go rack/pinion.
I don’t wonder if we could get away with belt drive.
Define “better” lead screw?
I did match the lead screw information to the Langmuir descriptions for the lead screw on McMaster Carr.
Unless I read wrong (which is possible) the X and Y axis are 0.5"/turn. The x axis lead screw is a 4-Start with a ratio 4:1 and the Y axis a 5 start with a 5:1. both travel 0.5"/turn.
Thanks
Edit - I emailed Langmuir customer service and withing 2 hours got a response back (Excellent)
The specs on the lead screw are correct for timing with the stepper motors and the x axis lead nuts
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I’d get the stainless, given what it is subjected to. Not the plain 1018 carbon
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Gotcha. Material selection. Definately a consideration only addes an additional $95 to the upgrade.
Thanks for the suggestion