Drag “tips/nozzles” are for hand cutting not CNC cutting. If you want 1.0MM/ 50 amp tips for your S45 torch contact me I have them.
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True but if it’s all you have on hand while waiting for replacements… 
Now I always have at least 5 full sets in reserve. It’s cheap insurance against bad cuts.
Me too, I keep buying my consumables from mechanic and they seem to last forever, but that doesn’t stop me from buying 
I spoke to you on phone a couple weeks ago and ordered both 20 and 30a tips from your website for my harbor freight v2 with the ipt40 torch. I did line test lines with both tips on 16g 25a 50-110 ipm 55psi for .6 and 65psi for the .8. I saw no significant difference in rear dross on any of the speeds (10 rpm increments) but the 50ipm showed the cleanest cut on top side. Tried same test on the .6 tips but it cut approx 1" and stopped. Tried a second tip with same results. Any suggestions?
Using the .8 tip I got about 260 piercings before I got a splatter but no penetration. Check tip and electrode looks good but tip hole is oblong. Is this wear normal as I have no experience with the machine to compare to. All cuts are with the .060 shim.
First 0.6mm/20 amp tips are only rated at 20 amps not 25 amps. Also every time you pierce you take a little life out of the tip so they will not last long. They will wear that’s why they are called consumables.
If your unhappy with them return them (even the used ones) and I will refund your money and pay the return shipping.
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Defrey,
Try increasing your shim height , even with the .6/ .8 tip keep speeds between 60ipm - 110ipm keep your air under 65psi while flowing - and dropping down to 24-26 amps.
also on the fine tips - i will kill them in an instant at 30 amps . they run forever at 25 amps.
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@mechanic416 is there an optimal kerf width that should be used for each tip size? i’ve been using the .055 following the langmuir videos and have cut a few things with no problem but i have a file that has thinner lines that fusion won’t create a toolpath for because i’m assuming the .055 kerf is too large.
I’m sure there are other factors when determining Kerf width but just trying to get a ballpark for each tip to start with.
That would depend on the thickness of the metal being used and the amps needed to cut it. A 0.6mm/20 amp tip only has a .024" orifice hole and a 0.8mm/30 amp tip has a .029" orifice hole. so on thin sheet like 24 or 22 gauge you can get a really thin kerf.
I cut a few things on 14g at 32amps using the 1.1 tip (because that’s all I had to start with) with the .055 kerf and it cut really good.
I want to switch up to the .9 tips for same material, same amps so what would be good kerf starting point?
You could use a 0.9mm/40 amp tip. I would TRY a 0.8mm/30 amp tip with the .024 kerf setting on some test cuts and see how it worked out, yes I know its only rated at 30 amps max but I think it may work.
I just bought a Crossfire and I’m thinking about buying a Primeweld Cut 60. I saw this cutter has a CNC port but the Langmuir website doesn´t show this machine on PLASMA CUTTERS COMPATIBLE WITH THE CROSSFIRE.
Is the Primeweld Cut 60 compatible out of the box with the Crossfire CNC port or do I need to replace or buy an adaptor? Thanks.
Thank you, but my Crossfire is not the “Pro”. Is the connector the same?
then you’ll only need to connect the torch on/off wires. the ones in white.
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CUT 60 Works Great! …you only need connect to pins 1 and 2 (page 29 in CUT 60 manual) in that connector if THC is not being used.
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I have the PrimeWeld Cut60. It has been a great machine for me. I am considering the Crossfire Pro, but I see on Langmuir systems website that they are discouraging it’s use. This is referenced on their plasma cutters page.
Does anyone have information regarding the extra steps that need to be taken to use the PrimeWeld Cut60?
you can still use the cnc port for the torch on /off cable but use RAW voltage from inside the cutter for the THC. pretty simple process. I’ll post a few pics in a minute of where to hook up the wiring on the inside.
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Did you talk to Primeweld about this connection? I am just wondering if that will void my warranty. I ordered my Pro just before Cut 60 hit the “no fly” list and have it almost completely assembled. Need to decide how to connect it.
Well if you’re not at all comfortable with doing it that way then your pretty much stuck until they resolve the issues with the divided voltage board or you go with another brand… primeweld is pretty good at honoring the warranty for pretty much anything though…
They actually prefer you use RAW instead of divided voltage until they fix it.
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