I got a new compressor, so I decided to upgrade my aftercooler setup. I already had the radiator and fan on my existing compressor, but they were zip tied and I wanted something more permanent and less ugly.
I whipped up a bracket, bent it into shape, welded Everbilt 15444 corner braces to it. Drilled holes in the compressor motor stand and installed 1/4-20 rivnuts so I can remove it as needed. Also used rivnuts for the fan mounting bolts. The fan presses against the outer frame of the radiator and holds it very tightly. I tied the 12V power supply directly into an extra set of contacts on the 220v motor. The fan spins up with the motor. I haven’t re-routed the compressor tubing yet, but that will only take me 15 minutes.
This modification doesn’t increase the duty cycle for the compressor, it scrubs the moisture leaving the compressor before it hits the tank. That way the air you store is pretty dry to begin with. Unless I’m misunderstanding your question?
Nice setup. I am about to add the same thing to mine.
This may sound like a silly question, but are you using the fan to pull air through or blowing it? The product description says the fan can be used for either method.
I only have the A/T cooler bought at this point, but I may get the same fan/converter as you posted above.
I have it set up pulling. You could probably get away without the fan, the cooler alone provides a large delta-T. But the fan is a cheap way to get even better cooling, the compressor air leaving the cooler will be right near ambient.
For joining bends, just cut the profiles with a knife and tape the seams. Around the couplings and fittings, scoop some material out from the inside wall.
I noticed you ran your 12V power supply to an outlet. I wired mine directly into the motor contacts so it powers up with the motor. Provided your power supply is rated for 120-240V, it will work fine.
If only this were true for me… I always seem to grab the hot nut after putting the torch to it to get it loose on the old farm equipment I’m working on.
I guess I could, since the warranty is basically null at this point anyways. Need to figure out where I can splice into it and then hide the converter.
