I’ve replaced the water in my table with green cut fluid. I’ve cut about 6 different projects in the course of 3 days now and I’ve got to say that I don’t really like it that well at all. It leaves everything kinda sticky. It has an RV antifreeze feel to it on your hands so you’re constantly washing your hands before you touch the computer vs just wiping your wet hands on your pants. It does get foamy if you let the torch sit in one spot for instance the after flow after cutting. The splatter and foam overflow and the stuff that drips off of your parts onto the floor makes a messy spot on the floor that you have to rinse off. Soooo… I’m carrying buckets of water at the end of my cutting anyway. The few times I had to get right in there and save a tip-up from halting my cutting gave me a face full of that stuff.
I’ll update after a while longer of using it.
Update, I actually like the fluid better than I previously did. The convenience of just flipping the lever and letting it drain and walk away is worth a lot. You kind of get used to the stickiness. It’s not as bad as I thought it was going to be. The foam has settled down a little. It still foams and the label says specifically that it will not foam. The bad deal is that I’m down almost a gallon of fluid already 
I would imagine it’s just from the stuff that goes out on the parts you cut. Not much hits the floor.
I’ve found that most of the fluid is actually water evaporating from cutting. If you cut a lot the water can get very hot.
Supposedly the greencut chemicals are not supposed to evaporate so you should be able to put regular water back in.
Where do you get the green cutting fluid at
Why does the table need drained between cutting? Our plasma tables at work arent drained until we clean out the tables every 6ish months.
Hi bricklef, do you have the dimensions of this aluminum table underneath water table? Looks very nice… Thanks
I made it 37 1/2" x 24 3/8" and put washers in to space it. It did this because there’s some need to be able to have the legs move for the purpose of squaring and parrellism. The bolts are not tight
I ordered 4 Liters of it and split the cost with a friend who has an LS table as well.
How much of this fluid is needed for the water table? Do you dilute it at all or just use it straight?
It calls for 1 liter / 5gals but we have only been mixing 1 per enough to fill the table.
May be a dumb question, but website says no nitrites in their fluid, is the anode still needed with this fluid?
I’m not running an anode with the green cut
It tested above 9.0 ph, I haven’t bothered to remove it. Don’t see any adverse effects either way.
Forgive my ignorance here, but will a ph that high adversely affect the aluminum over time? I’m not even knowledgeable on how the ph affects the metals anyways
You can search through this forum sir. Everyone has their own understanding and I don’t believe everyone has had the same experiences with their tables and the fluid they’ve chosen to use. No ignorant or dumb questions here sir, all in it for the understanding for sure.
I personally bought the Green Cut because I could save on shipping for me and my friend. I will be using Sodium Bicarbonate whenever the day comes that my supply of Green Cut is depleted. Again, my personal choice.
Best, Steve.
I ordered a 5 liter pail from lubeclean.ca. They are out of Canada. The guy I talked with explained all the benafits and why ph is important. Guy could not have been nicer. Was cheaper with shipping then other online places without.
I’ve cut lots of projects now and I actually do like the green cut. I’ve used up several gallons. I’ve read/been told that it’s mostly evaporation and that I can just add more water to it. I will do that but I also think you do lose a couple ounces just from getting each project wet with the fluid. Some sprays out when you’re cutting and some foams over the side (I know they say it doesn’t foam but I can produce videos showing otherwise). I drain my table after each use just because it’s easy not because it’s necessary. I’ll add some water to get me back some of the lost gallons this time and I’ll buy green cut again when the time comes. I do like it
I just use water with washing soda added, really cheap. Use test kit you can get from pool stores. Keep the ph 7.5 - 9.0.
You can check alkalinity as well and I keep that slight high as well
Ph and Alkalinity go hand in hand though as you change one increase or decrease the level the other follows suit.
Keeping both on the high sides of the spectrum creates an environment for your slats to keep from corroding. I also just add some algeside to keep the water fresh also…works great… and it’s all fairly cheap. The water is free, and the washing soda and alkalinity increased is something I already have on hand for my pool anyway.
It’s proven method used by the industrial boiler industry for long,long,long time.
I have tested GreenCut for 6 months on my router table and it worked great, until I started machining brass. I find out GreenCut is chemically very unstable, reacting with brass immediately, turning into blue color and leaving blueish crystals everywhere. Cleaning machine became a nightmare and finally wasnt bearable at all. I had 2 phonecalls with “chief engineer” from lube corp. well i spent more than 1 hour listening to how greencut is awesome, and my problems are just just about poor maintenance or lean mixture. When I told him, Its happening with fresh, clean mixture 20:1 he repeated all nonsense of maintenance and pH and said if its turning blue, its normal, just wipe it off. … Hmm thanks. True is GreenCut is chemically unstable when it comes to brass/bronze/copper, so if you do those metals, save yourself a lot of time and money and go for some different product.