Anyone upgrade from RW45 to a Hypertherm?

Considering making the swap with my main goal being faster and cleaner cuts. For those who have made the upgrade, did you feel cut quality actually got better at all or does it still cut basically the same?

Havent really had an issue with the RW45 unit, besides when i first got it, but i feel like i’ve dialed it in as much as possible yet there’s still some room for quality improvement.

Figured id ask around before blowing some money and getting same results

I upgraded for the duty cycle. I really can’t say much bad about the razor weld. I upgraded to a hypertherm 65 it has a 100 percent duty cycle at 45 amps I do a lot of long cuts on 1/4. The hypertherm does cut amazing. I also get nice cuts from razor weld. Dry air is a must whichever you have. What do you plan to cut the most?

at the moment i mostly cut 14 gauge, but some 3/16s stuff and ill eventually be doing thicker stuff down the road (i fix heavy equipment as a second hobby)

My air is pretty dry, got a very large 1" copper tubing wall drier setup, an inline dessicant filter, a water filter and then 6" from the plasma unit i have the common Motorguard unit. My compressor is also a bit oversized for my requirements so i’m not just pumping hot air through the system.

Got you just seems to be a common problem with cut quality. I don’t regret my upgrade. It is a lot of money for sure. I bought one of the last original styles I could find was unsure about the sync technology. I even got company I work for to agree to let me start making some parts we use to pay for it faster.

Yea, honestly my “quality issues” are probably just me being a bit OCD, it mostly cuts really well but a bit slow and some weird random issues that aren’t really anything major in the big picture. I just figured if people saw some noticeable improvements I’d be willing to upgrade

I don’t regret it. What brand consumables are you using. You have a machine torch right? May try a different brand.

Yea im using the PTM60 machine torch from george on here, and i get all the official consumables from him.
I think i may have figured out part of my issue tonight, think my torch cable was randomly pulling the torch messing with the Z height and in a separate issue I threw an IHS warning during a long cut so I’m thinking my issue is in that Z axis which is what it seems like in the cuts, like my height is fluctuating randomly causing a small jaggedness.

I’ll look at it more in depth during the week. It’s always been annoying because its unpredictable, i could cut 2 identical cuts from same zero point on the table and the jaggedness would be in different spots. I thought it’d be the little motor couplers but they’re so torqued my allen key bends when i try to snug them.

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Mark them with a sharpie just for giggles.

Yea I gotta grab a paint pen from work that we use to verify bolts aren’t moving and I’ll try that

I cut this tonight which mostly came out good, those stuck panels are all from cut starts that didn’t fully pierce for some reason (I’m thinking height) but for most part there wasn’t much jaggedness occurring although I’ll know better once I pull it from the vinegar bath. This pic is fresh off the table not cleaned or anything

I noticed that my razor weld would do the same thing When it was time for new consumables. What’s your pierce count and cut time?

When the issue arises I’ll generally swap consumables and it’ll fix it, but sometimes it’ll happen on consumables that are basically new.

While cutting that car for example I had to swap electrode once and tip twice (I generally swap them at same time, but I started with a fairly new electrode and swapped the tip before the cut just to be safe, when the first issue popped up I put a new electrode and tip in) I believe the issue is damaging my consumables rather than my consumables causing the issue.

Also some of those stuck pieces happen in between not stuck pieces. So it’ll cut out fine, then leave a stuck piece, then cut fine again.

Is there a chance that maybe your compressor is running during these issues? Maybe a pressure drop. Hotter air carries more moisture. I know you said you had a good air setup but some moisture may be making it to your plasma. I am sure you know it is death on consumables. Just trying to throw out ideas.

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I can’t remember if it’s running during the issues but anything is possible. Maybe I’ll order one of those refrigerated units

What I have is a transmission cooler and water separator filter between compressor and tank. My tanks are a 80 and a 30 gallon. Then another tans cooler and separator filter. Then a hf refrigerated dryer. I have a 30 gallon down stream never gets moisture in it

The jagged cut make me wonder do 6ou oil lead screws? I clean with WD-40 and oil with 3 in 1

On your original topic I don’t think you will regret the upgrade as long as it will pay for itself.

I use 3 in 1 to oil the lead screws haven’t tried using a lube to clean them I’ll try that tonight see what comes off of them.

I was thinking of doing an aftercooler like yours between tank and compressor but haven’t done it yet. On my copper wall cooler by there’s 3 valves, first one will have water, 2nd barely a mist and 3rd one has never shown any moisture.

I’m in NJ tho and right now it’s like 100% humidity so maybe there’s moisture getting in somewhere.

How do you like that HF refrigerated dryer? Recommend it?

For the money yes easy way to remove moisture. You may not have moisture. Just an idea. I don’t even run beads anymore have not seen the need in my case. I am deep in the heart of the Appalachian mountains in Virginia.

Yea it’s relatively cheap peace of mind, even if it doesn’t fix this issue I’ll know my air is better so it’s a win win.

I like your train of thought. Keep us posted on air dryer. If you go with a hypertherm give us a review. Just my thoughts the more you do to dry air the more prone you are to air restrictions. That’s kinda why I added the extra air tanks one has no restrictions.

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