I’m in the same boat as you. Also Everlast 52i. Just putting it all together.
Sorry if this has been touched on before but wondering if I should run off my compressor through my air dryer before the air goes into the compressor tank or is that overthinking it? I live in a very humid area so I would like to keep as much moisture out of my brand new compressor if possible. Not sure this is even an option but in theory seems like it would work.
I wouldn’t it will be unnecessary pressure on your pump. Any way you try you won’t remove all the moisture so a teaspoon or a gallon your tank will be wet. Air drying equipment is better served post tank…
Oh there is several threads it is a rabbit hole for sure. One thread I posted some results of a compressor run both ways.
Well I could start a new thread but this one may have some life to it. I was checking out some of the Refrigerated Air Dryers. Quincy Refrigerated Air Dryer (13 CFM).
Some specs - On the Quincy Refrigerated Air Dryer
• Handles 13 CFM at 100 PSI; 232 PSI maximum
• Uses 115V-1 phase power; 0.5" NPT-M connector in & out
• Max Inlet Temp. Rating 131 F
• Inlet Fittings 1/2"
• Outlet Fittings 1/2"
The Temp. Rating of 131 F was what I am looking at. Would I still need the copper pipe cooler? The compressors don’t tell you what the temperature of the air coming out of them is (the tank). I would like a quieter one if possible. Maybe this one - EMAX $2899.00 60,000-hours Silent Air 175 PSI Electric Air Compressor with Isolator Pads and Auto Drain • 17 CFM at 100 PSI.
If I ran the copper pipe cooler I think it would be easier to run the pipe horizontal maybe 10 to 20 feet then u-turn back the same. Something simple.
I did find a hose -
Upgraded Compressor Jumper Hose, High-Temperature 320°F, 3/4" x 40"Length, 3/4" NPT Male Connector, Both Sides Fittings Rotate Freely, 700 PSI, on Amazon.
This would be effected by, ambient air temp and compressor usage/run time and what set pressures you have it set at.
I have one of these compressors sold under the polar air name, but I don’t have the silent air option.
That option when I saw it maybe 14 years ago was nothing more then a large insulated sheet metal box that the inlet of the pump pulled from. I was going to build my own, but never got around to it.
I am very happy with my compressor.
Yes. Your inlet temperature will directly effect the rate CFM capacity of the refrigerated air drier.
Here is a link to that product. All the specs I am going to reference are going to be from the documents tab in the link
https://compressorworldcanada.ca/quincy-qpnc-13-13-cfm-refrigerated-air-dryer-1-2-npt-115-1-60-rated-for-2-3-hp-air-compressors.html
Here is a clip from the QC-QPRD Brochure-Gatefold.pdf (7.90 MB) This clip highlights the baseline performance with all the nominal values of 1 highlighted.
If we do “Example Two: Calculations” on the bottom right of this clip (above) using our example the QPNC-13 with the nominal values it looks like this
QPNC-13 Corrected Capacity = 13CFM x 1 x 1 x 1 x 1
QPNC-13 Corrected Capacity = 13CFM
Now lets add the maximum inlet temperature of 131F and a Ambient Air Temperature of 90F
QPNC-13 Corrected Capacity = 13CFM x 1 x 0.49 x 0.91 x 1
QPNC-13 Corrected Capacity = 5.8CFM
Now the Capacity of this machine is reduced to 5.8CFM .
Inlet temperature makes a huge impact on the capacity of a refrigerate air drier.
A aftercooler before the refrigerated dryer is a good idea if you are goin to do long runs if just cutting a sign or two you may not need one. a aftercooler being a copper pipe or radiator type both work good.
doing a copper pipe be sure you have several low places with drains for water to collect and be removed.
That’s a rather severe case unless the equipment is stored in unconditioned space AND the demand is continuous AND it merely affects the amount of cooling, not the actual air flow.
Yes I agree. It does help highlight the point that inlet temperature has a large impact on capacity and it is the temperature the OP was referencing.
Yes . Reduced load (removal of heat energy) capacity relative to air flow of 13 CFM.
So in the worst case scenario above the that 13CFM going through the machine with the capacity reduced to 5.8CFM will have 7.2 CFM of Air it wont reduce the humidity at all. so our relative humidity will be a lot higher then designed forcing the desiccant to pick up this extra load after the refrigerated air drier.
13 CFM is physically making it through but at a much higher relative humidity.
Tsk, that is gamesmanship. The relative humidity will be reduced UNIFORMILY for all of the volume. You make it sound like you’ll have a burst (7.2CF) of wet air… 
AND I don’t know a PC that would suck 13CFM…
yes the 5.8cfm and 7.2cfm are mixed together .
but I feel this is a good way to illustrate the point of the reduced capacity. In the scenario the machine is only at a capacity of 5.8 and that is spread over all the 13CFM.
Totally but this is the example provided.
The same concept also works for small air drier where they will be running below design capacity.
I wasn’t trying be misleading with the way I explained it. I though It better illustrated the point .
Oh I know this, but it gives me a great opportunity to pull your chain! 
Awesome, thank you for the insight. I will make an after cooler since I have access to DC drivers I can get a fan mounted on a switch so it comes on when the compressor is running.
I also had another thought. I have a old 26gal HFT compressor I’ve been using for years and thinking about removing the motor and plumbing my new compressor into it so I will then have 86 gallons of storage is this a good idea or also not needed? My new compressor is a 60 gal
yes, it can be. one thing to remember anything you do to try your air will restrict your air flow or cfms. I have 2 small 30 gallons tanks after all my air-drying equipment so i can pull from without a lot of restrictions.
also, don’t skip out on a bead cell dryer and a filter as the last stage of drying. this is recommended for the best quality air.
But must you do that Tom? You could be labeled a Bully!
I guess it’s ok as long gas you don’t bully me. 
Beating up on TW??? I don’t think so! That guy is a Monster!
Oh trust me I am well aware of the man!
I did both the radiator and the copper tubing types before the refrigerated dryer (HF brand). I agree with you that maybe no need for both if you are a small timer like me only running a few signs at a time.
I have seen some water out of the drain on my radiator, but as of yet none out of the refrigerated dryer. I have my fan on the rad cooler set to activate at 96F and have yet to have it activate during a cut, even when the garage temp is 85-90F.
Hindsight, being anal about stuff I still might have done both, but I would reduce the length of my tubing by about 50%.
Where I live it is super wet. I actually have 2 radiator type post tank just because I have had them. The hotest t have seen my refrigerated take is was about 90ish that was on a hour long nest. The refrigerated air dryer still catches a insane amount of moisture.