Air Dryer for air compressor

I’ve got all the components purchased to build one of these. Now I just need the time.

I did the same thing years ago on my air compressor ( I also put a condenser is from a car on the side of conpresser Air compressor. Works great.

I think I missed this whole air thing in the set up. Im new to plasma cutting so with that in mind the way Im reading in the forum is that we need to hook up an air compressor to the razorweld 45 is that correct? and then you also need some sort of moisture reducing filter system.

Yes. You’ll need a fairly sizable compressor. I’d recommend a 60 gallon 4-5HP unit at a minimum. Check out Menards Sanborn model for an economical entry level option. Northern Tool branded units are decent and they have sales often.

Dry air is critical. At a minimum you will need an in-line drier. Many of us (myself included) have additional means of removing or reducing moisture.

well, that is a bit extreme. Nice to have, but Plasma cutters can get by with 2-3HP. It’s more about CFM and what you’re intending to cut.

I do agree with your comment WRT dry air. Absolutely essential. How you get it is a constant source of input on this forum, right @ctgolfer?


Ya man, dry air essential, you do not have to spend much money on it but it is important. How much moisture you need to pull out depends on where you live and what time of year you are cutting with plasma.

As mentioned, a bunch of different routes to get dry air. A multi stage approach is best but comes at more cost. I found adding an aftercooler on the compressor with a water separator the best way to pull a lot of moisture out before it gets into your compressor tank. Here is another thread that has some details on an example aftercooler setup: Air drier and compressor requirements, and example programs

This is my set up. It works really well. I’ve got steam pouring off my water table getting sucked into my compressor and none of it makes it back to my plasma torch. A couple “key” things that you need to do when building one of these is go with 1" copper tube or larger. Also you need to make the corners connection were the dump valve is the way I did it. Most guys have a smooth transition at this point that doesn’t separate the water as well. You want to make sure you use a T at the dump corners.

Hello All,

I’m getting close to fire up my Pro.

I’m using a Dewalt 80 gallon air compress, and purchased a Ingersoll Rand D18IN dryer, does anyone run a unit like this, if so what settings have you found work well?

Thanks in advance

Welcome to the forum @Rusty1

You are going to need some more equipment besides just your refrigerated air dryer.

Your refrigerated air dryer has a maximum input temperature.

It also has an input temperature that all of its ratings are based on.

So it’s very likely you’ll need some after cooling between me compressor and your refrigerated air dryer to reduce the temperature of the compressed air to before entering the air dryer.

Also after your refrigerated air dryer you’ll want a desiccant cell of some type to reduce the dew point further.

Having a particulate and oil filter before your refrigerator air dryer is a good idea as well.

Seems like a really good unit.
If the air temperature entering this unit is over 38° c it will start to reduce your capacity.

This is the standard you should be aiming for.

ISO 8573-1
Class 1.2.2


You can see by the air quality standards chart listed below and referencing your spec sheet on the refrigerated air dryer that the air dryer is only capable of reaching a class 6 pressure dew point by itself, that’s why a desiccant cell is needed.

1 Like

Thank you for a quick and informative answer to my posting.

Do you think if I built a cooling manifold using 1/2 or 3/4 copper piping 3 to 5 feet long looping pipes on my shop wall, would cool the compressed air, before going into the dryer? I’ll use my laser thermometer to check the temperature.

Do you have a recomendation for the desiccant cell you mentioned?

Thanks again

yes a passive radiator will drop the temperature of the compressed air.

There is a balancing act to be aware of:

too small or/and too long will increase your resistance which will increase the overall pressure drop .

too big you will have laminar flow in the middle of the pipe so part on the mass of the air wont be subject to cooling as affectively.

you could but that will only give you surface temperature on the pipe not the air flow temperature. yes they correlate somewhat but this is not truly accurate and surface temperature lag behind the air flow temperature. an in air stream sensor would be ideal.

large. something that can handle 11scfm +/- would match up to your refrigerate air dryer nicely.

something like this.

1 Like

I did some research and found the “Derale 15300 Tube and Fin Cooler” has been used on the Dewalt to brin g the air temperature down fro 300 degrees to 85.

Should I put the DeVilbiss 130525 QC3 Air Filter and Dryer

Brand: Devilbiss

just before going into my cutter?

I use a desiccant then a motor guard 60 filter just before plasma machine. I would buy a desiccant canister that holds the beads instead of the filter, then into the motorguard 60 filter. just my opinion?

1 Like

I use this same canister, I pop open the “filter” and change the bead within.

this is filed with beads


Ok. I didn’t realize this held the beads inside the filter cartridge. You learned me on this Tin… Is this DeVilbiss better setup then what I am using?

I don t know about better but it serve me well on my setup.

I have two of those filters. I kept one in the canister and one in a ziploc bag dry and ready to go.

when in gets “wet” I pop open the filter and bake the beads then it waits in the ziploc bag for its turn in the canister.

1 Like

Haven’t had any issues with my set up, always looking for ways to improve on system when something comes along for better results.

Looks like eastwood rebrands that 130525 QC3 Air Filter and Dryer canister at 1/3 the price. sure wish I would have seen that before.

I would not used the 1/4 " reducer though

1 Like

A note about this cooler is it’s not a passive cooler you need to move air through it actively for it to work correctly.

Some people use the fan on the compressor that cools the head (s)
But you have to be careful that you don’t end up in a robbing Peter to pay Paul situation. By either blowing the air off this hot coil and it running into the heads or blowing the hot air off the heads into this coil.

1 Like