Run it down hill close to a wall, put a Tee in the line & ball valve. Run a rod up thru the floor along the wall & bolt a lever on the wall to activate the ball valve. Kinda like shiftier linkage on an old transmission or steering linkage to move the ball valve in the room below you. Keep everything mounted solid and it should last for years.
that is what it is about. again i am not advocating puting a cooler between pump and tank. If i was to have to replumb i would probably put it with the other after cooler. i am curious how hot other peoples compressors run
I have a temperature sensor on that same tube you monitored on my HomeDepot Husky 60 gallon 1 phase 3.7 HP motor. My after cooler is a combination of the transmission cooler and my “mission to mars” 100 foot coil of PEX tubing with a 20 inch fan blowing on it. The temperature sensor activates my fan when the temp is above 75 degrees.
The temperature gets to 248 degrees every time the compressor runs after it has rested down to room temperature but when it is running successively without a complete cool-down it gets up to 290 degrees (maybe higher).
So far I have not run it enough to really catch any water. My beads are still blue. But I do notice when I disconnect one of the hoses or attachments, I don’t feel a damp spray like I used to.
where i live and where my house is i get a crazy amount of water! i run two smaller bead cell filters right now my next upgrade will be one large one… on my long runs on my table which is about a hour long or long powder coating sessions i usually change then out often.
go ahead and rub that one in. i will be luck to retire in 20 plus years… i wouldn’t run my as much as i do if i wasn’t doing a lot for the company. i would say your setup will definitely catch some water.
I feel like everything this discussion gets going it gets super confusing and theoretical. Im going to put what I’m trying to determine as simply as possible and see if we can keep it right on the following premise until we collectively agree somehow. Not necessarily agree on the theory, but agree that we all understand what’s being described. My goal here is not to prove anything either way, I’m seriously just trying to understand the dynamics of this.
My cooler between the pump and tank immediately removed a teaspoon of water every cycle.
After removing the cooler, would that same amount of water end up in the tank?
If that’s the case, how quickly does it drop the moisture and temperature? Immediately when it hits the tank and expands or over time it cools to ambient?
In my opinion it depends on how much you use it. I would say the cooler air in the tank would quickly reduce the incoming air temp making the moisture fall out.
I do run my compressor to death sometimes sand blasting and such. I have a cooler after my pump it catches a crazy amount of moisture of course I where I live I can use a compressor as a power washer. I also have a post tank cooler before my refrigerated dryer when the conditions are right or on hard pulls it will collect a teaspoon or so of water in a hour or so of use…
I have really enjoyed this thread. Everyone has their own opinion and that is great. I personally don’t think if using the correct cooler it is wrong to have one between the pump and tank.
If I was to redo my system I would say I would have the two after coolers together post tank.
The area we all live in really dictates what kind of setup we need. That is my opinion we all know that analogy
Lol. There must be an answer! Even now just waking around my kitchen after getting home from work I’m realizing I didn’t paint a full enough picture for trying to prove or disprove or understand the cooler location.
My current setup, with the cooler immediately after the tank, should collect moisture, but it’s not. Although, I couldn’t source the same water trap I had been using. I’ve ordered a new one that’s clear to be able see if anything is coming out after its trip through the cooler.
I think for me to really grasp this I’m going to have to do some serious studying and research. But… I don’t want to. I’ll have to accept it. Lol. I think I’m keeping my cooler in its current location for now until I get the new filter on it and can see if it’s removing anything once the weather heats up. If it doesn’t, I’ll be forced to assume the cooler served no purpose other than to keep some water out of my tank. I think that’s as simple of a scientific method that can be applied.
I see it as your tank is doing the job that your after cooler was doing. The after cooler post tank will never see moisture unless you run your compressor hard enough to put hot air out of the tank
So your setup unless you don’t want that water in your tank a after cooler is not needed. The after cooler will only remove so much water. That moisture has already feel out
But like i said before. My compressor hates me I give it a hard workout from time to time. Then the after cooler post tank will catch moisture because the air coming out is still hot enough to hold moisture that the after cooler can remove. It will only get so much.
On average how much do you use yours and how many times does it cycle?? What area do you live in is it a dry climate?
Just as a note on the “can damage occur with cooler between compressor and tank” question, in my case it would have done damage. I have a 220V, 5hp, 60 gallon Cambell-Hausfield capable of 9.0 SCFM @ 90 psi.
I had it pre-tank initially, but after listening to this compressor for 25 years I could definitely tell a difference in the RPMs. I moved mine to post tank. I have a separator just prior and have a thermocouple on the cooler inlet to activate the electric fan.
So far (installed about 1 month ago) I haven’t gotten any moisture out of the cooler, but our humidity is just starting to increase. I have gotten a few ounces out of the tank after each cutting session. My cutting time is typically <20 minutes per session.
As far as placement for overall system drying strategy, I don’t have enough background to vote. I just know pre-tank didn’t work for my relatively small, old compressor.
When the humidity rises in a month or two, I’ll see if the cooler and the rest of the system are earning their keep. I am guessing the tank will still do the brunt of the work, but I’m okay with that.
Excellent. That’s the kind of data I’m looking for. Both times I found the cooler fitting broken I had noticed a change in run time and sound of the compressor.
Also, on my Smittybilt on board compressor in my 4Runner, I ran air lines to each wheel well, but used too small if tubing the compressor got very hot and performance was bad. I disconnected the on board air and used the single hose and it was night and day. I believe this is the same principle for coolers in between the tank and pump. The pump is not designed to push through that much more restrictive tubing and causes undue stress
in case anyone would be interested in some more information. i looked my plumbing over i can buy a few fittings and bypass my aftercooler and check temps and cycle times again. i plan to swing by the hardware store one day this week.
i will be luck to retire in 20 plus years… i wouldn’t run my as much as i do if i wasn’t doing a lot for the company. i would say your setup will definitely catch some water.