I have explained it above and in other posts linked above.
Please take the time to read the posts and let us know where the flaw in the logic presents.
2 Likes
I still believe the disconnect is between my ears. I’ll read through again. The logic is sound and the math works out. ( But, my downstream filters are dry nowadays). Let’s put this to bed and go cut some circles and squares.
The truth is if you like it there it doesn’t matter to anyone. The Idea is to drop the air temp so moisture can naturally fall out. That is the whole idea.
Please don’t take it the wrong way. You see a ton of water being removed pre tank and it’s awesome I was the same way.
The truth is a after cooler will do the same thing post tank. I have mine there you wouldn’t believe the amount of moisture it catches.
When mine was pre tank I didn’t notice the long cycle times at first. It wasn’t until I did a few long sandblasting sessions. My cycle time was near half as long post tank. What is happening is air either blows by the rings on the piston in the compressor or by pass your reed valves in the compressor head. Neither is healthy.
Again it makes no difference to anyone but you. As for me I make quite a bit of extra money with my equipment so I want to take care of it. If you just piddle around I am sure it will last you a long time.
All my tests results are in this thread. If curiosity kills the cat do some test. I am bull headed as well about changing my mind. I am sorry facts don’t back the benefit of the placement of a after cooler pre tank
5 Likes
That is my overriding conclusion. Totally agree with your process and reasoning. I personally want to extend the time from now and when I must replace my compressor.
@keith1 I think we have all had our own personal evolution/journey on this topic and our individual setup. No one is upset with you being happy with your set-up. You keep being you and you will continue to to have good results with dry air.
The pushback you are getting is from the standpoint of you trying to convince that the pre-tank intercooler is the only setup that makes sense.
3 Likes
@ChelanJim oh, heck no. Not saying or even thinking it is the only solution. It was the solution that I could afford, (wish I could have afforded the copper organ pipes and refrigerated cooler).
2 Likes
As far as the refrigerated dryer I have seen some home made jobs that seem to work. Then the copper pipe coolers are very expensive to make and man the room they take up. My opinion buying a large enough after cooler with a fan is just as effective ( as long as it is post tank) 
2 Likes
I made a refrigerated cooler using pex and an old mini fridge that is doing a really nice job. And for the record I was a huge proponent of the cooler between the compressor head and tank. It did indeed pull lots of water out of the air, and kept my tank dry. Moisture was still making it to and through my desiccant with A dry tank. And someone on here mentioned extended run times. Sure enough my compressor was running significantly longer each cycle with the inter cooler in place. I temporarily removed it an d tried this diy refrigerator cooler and love it. I use pt60 consumables not exactly know for their longevity and am getting 900 plus pierces now and when I view the inside they are still shiny copper.
5 Likes
How thick of materials are you cutting getting 900+ pierces?
16 gauge. Running a 45 amp harbor freight nozzle for the titanium. (It is on my Everlast machine) I am cutting at 32 amps. About 62 psi with air flowing.
1 Like
I have a video of the dryer, my desiccant and the inside of the nozzle. I can’t figure out how to load it here.
I host it on youtube and then post a link.
sorry for delay. i had previously posted it elsewhere on here i though. anyway here you go!
3 Likes
I read through a lot of the comments. You guys are very smart. Great info. I wouldn’t want to try to alter my compressor in any way. I was looking at some of the expensive ones that have the silent technology and auto drains. [EMAX 80 Gal. 5 HP 3-Cylinder 1-Phase Silent Air 175 PSI Electric Air Compressor with Isolator Pads and Auto Drain
But as far as the copper vertical U drops with drains at the bottom. It seems to me that the surface area of the copper cools the compressed air. But would a second tank have a lot of surface area also? And they have a drain already built in. The second tank might be quick easy and maybe cheaper? All my time is going into turning a dirt floor carport into a concrete slab CNC plasma shop.
The refrigerated air dryer too.
1 Like
A second tank would help drop your air temp. I can’t tell you which would work best. I have after coolers post tank with a fan to drop the temp to around room temp before it goes in my refrigerated dryer. They have spec on input temps. I didnt like the cost of copper pipe nor did I have the wall space.
Keep in mind anything you do to dry air will restrict flow. I have dry air tanks I pull from without restrictions that are after my air drying equipment. You may want to consider a bead cell dryer and filter as the last stage.
4 Likes
I was moderately successful, primarily relying on my auto drain of the tank.
Your second tank will have the advantages to your set-up:
- You will get some added temperature drop.
- Another auto drain will take more water out of the system.
- The extra storage of compressed air will help with better volume on the short run but only until the compressor kicks in. Then you will see that your compressor will run twice the time to get up to full pressure. That could be a disadvantage (increased temperature in the system).
I am not sure if you are saying “I plan to use the refrigerated dryer” or if you are saying “I also plan to wait on the refrigerated dryer.”
I would say, follow your plan but prepare for a backup plan if you see moisture causing issues with your situation.
4 Likes
You are 10000% correct on the ore tank. It made my pump go out on my I.R. comprrasor.
Got a new Quincy, amd will be running post tank with the cooler now
1 Like
I was looking at an EMAX today as well, the 10HP 80 gallon in particular. I’m definitely looking seriously at that compressor, 38CFM@100PSI is more than enough air even for my sandblasting and it’s rated for 70,000 hours with the silent air system (50,000 without it). Not cheap but it would probably be the last compressor I would ever have to buy.
Back to the aftercooling…
I think the air cooler I had mounted to the front of the pulley housing on mine will have to be moved. My head temps went up 30-40 degrees (air temps after cooler were still less than 100 though) and yesterday my compressor blew the head gasket. I’ve had this compressor for 17 years and put MANY hours on it so it could just be age but it’s a bit of a coincidence for my tastes. I can’t fault the compressor, it’s been a real trooper through the years. Ordered the new head gasket today and I’ll install in and put the compressor back in service.
2 Likes
Just beware 10HP motors on single phase can be short lived, depending on use. I have a friend that has one and has replaced the motor several times over the years. This is in a body shop and gets a fair amount of use. I have the 7.5 HP made by Eaton and it will run a blast cabinet fine, will even cycle but not very often.
1 Like
Did you have a cooler between the pump head and the tank?
1 Like