I was considering making some jigs that are 3D printed. They would guide the drill bits to the proper positions.
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Ordered two pieces of 2" x 2" stainless
2" x 2" x 11ga.(.120") Stainless Steel Square Tube T-304 180 Polished Finish
Just shy of $150 for two pieces cut to 52" shipped
I think I will go try staying with a 3/8 lead screw but don’t see a 3/8-8 4 start lead screw at McmasterCarr
It’s under lead screws. I checked a while back so it should still be there. It’s not ACME thread.
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Where did you order your stainless tube? Online or locally?
I did the custom cut selecting 4’ then another row pops up to select inches from 4" and that saved some on price and shipping over getting 5’ pieces. I am just going to use stainless for both rails.
https://www.metals4uonline.com/stainless-steel-square-tube-polish180-2x2x11ga
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My box tube arrives on the third so need to get a lead screw.
Need to move forward on a lead screw.
What would you think about using a tool post grinder and a lathe to turn down a 1/2 lead screw to fit the 3/8 lead screw adapter and bearing end?
No problem there, although these screws arent heat treated so you can turn them easily.
Did you need to replace the lead screw or did you just order to confirm that you had the right one for the shaft?
Lead screw must be replaced lengthened by the amount the table is extended. You don’t have to up size the lead screw though. That is my current dilemma stay 3/8 or go 1/2
I just ordered my new leadscrew and nut. Went with 1/2-10, 5 start, like @Gtxracer did. Figured at higher ipm the longer 3/8 screw would whip.
Did you get you lead screw nut from the ebay link above? Looked like he only had four packs currently. If so sell me two and I will just go 1/2" 
I bought a 3 pack. Item 142638623979 from seller imsrv on Ebay. Thinking I’m going to extend the x axis also or else I would sell you one. Sorry @richard_horn
Edit
It was a single piece item and I bought 2 total.
Do you plan to buy or make new adapters or turn the leads screw ends down to fit the current 3/8 adapters?
I bought item number 283179610336 on Ebay for the motor side. Not too sure what I’m doing on the other end. Maybe a piece of 3/4 round stock with a 1/2 hole and some set screws on one side and a threaded hole on the other. Maybe just use a cap screw the same diameter as the ID of the bearing to secure it. At that point might just be able to thread a hole in the end of the acme screw
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Got my steel today. Well wrapped. Quality looks good. Ran a caliper down one stick and the stuff looks good.
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@gtxracer this is a great upgrade. I plan on expanding my table to use the entire water table foot print as well. How did you end up dialing in the .02 Y alignment ? What was the process to adjust the Y axis gantry to the new upper tube?
@drlguy I adjusted the .020” from the z axis using the bearing blocks on the y axis. I used clamps and shimming to get it right. It’s not an exact science as long as you understand how the bearing blocks work. I positioned the torch holder at the farthest point in the x and y and put a shim under it. Then I tightened all the bearing blocks. Moved it over to the other side where y is at 0 and did it again. I measured the gap without the shim. I used a piece of .125” for the shim, also can use the one that comes with the table.
Use a caliper and get it very very close. It will matter when you’re running long parts. I’ve cut parts that are right at 34” and run through all of the travel. These were 1/4” thick a36 steel and I cut it with a near perfect edge with my Hypertherm 65. It’s all about using dry air with the right settings for your consumables. I use finecut for everything 1/4” and under.
Good luck!
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Had my pieces of tubing sitting on the rack for a month now for this upgrade. Really need to get around to doing it.
I’m currently debating between welding an entire heavier duty frame for the entire machine with this upgrade as a part of it or if i want to keep the frame it has.
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This is a quick sketch of what i plan to build.
It will expand the machine to cover the full surface of the water table and have a shelf at the bottom. I would love to just make the machine a 4x2 but i simply don’t have the space.
One of the biggest issues i find with the machine is keeping it level to the water table with such a flimsy frame. If the frame was welded heavier steel it wouldn’t matter we much how level the feet were.
