Any price breaks if you offer to supply the g-code? 
Actually, that sounds like a very good price compared to what I pay for steel here.
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How much was the shipping?
Lol he doesn’t charge extra for simple stuff that takes 2 minutes to draw
Plus the G code for his laser setup would be…way different than my own!
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Local.
I have some 5-6 fabrication shops within 15mins (this place is 12 mins away) from me, and one of them is actually one of my steel suppliers as well.
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Did you happen to check to see how consistent the hole placement was with calipers?
And how square holes are to each other?
Just wondering how close they came out
Also do you have a long straight edge (not a 4’ level like some people like to use) you can check flatness?
I looked into having a 4x8 laser cut out of 3/4" and they were pretty concerned with it needing to be ground flat afterwards
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Have you considered using the center hole marking program on your XR and just using a mag drill to make the holes? I can’t image the cost they gave you to laser cut all the holes in the 3/4” steel plate.
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Not really, I’m not sure the XR will support a 4x8x3/4 plate. and I am not sure how accurate hole placement would come out.
Never got to the quoting side as they did not feel they could do it. Once I started thinking about all the problems with working with something that heavy I just started looking at complete tables.
I was just curious on how close the tolerance was on that laser cut table.
Building small stuff and being off a small amount does not really matter, but for me when doing some thing and it is 7’-8’ long it really starts to show up.
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Now you got me wondering if i could create the Gcode for center marking a 3x4ft welding table and someone else could put on their table and mark spots to drill as suggested above. I don’t do the cut ready files on fileshare but same concept. We might need to try this out on smaller item like cheap 6x6" with 4 marks.
I did, the holes are dead on 2" centers and with calipers each and every set of holes measures the same from one end to the other across the table.
I did not check for flatness in the way you describe because I’ve yet to even set it up. It’ll be another week or month before I do so.
However, I’m not expecting a perfectly flat top. I’m a fabricator not a machinist. I paid as much for it as it costs to fill up my F250 diesel, not $2-4k like a perfectly flat precision table would cost.
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People already do that for marking other things.
I’m betting it’ll be pretty accurate as well but too much work.
Personally, it’s cheap enough buying it laser cut than having to spend all day drilling a ton of holes with a mag drill. I know someone that did it and although it looks really sharp, he wishes he had just bought a laser cut instead.
He spent hours getting it all done; sure we use our “off time” to do projects for ourselves but if I’m between $50-100/hr in work that I offer, it’s much cheaper buying it already done.
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I understand what you’re saying, I was just curious as to the results. That helps me make better educated decisions when I take on different projects.
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Oh for sure, more info the better.
But even my plasma table accurately made the holes at 2" centers and these tables are the cheapest on the market.
I set that table top aside though and will ream out the holes “whenever I feel like it” since it’s not a priority; I made it cause I can lol.
Going back to the flat part, what are you designing that requires a perfectly flat surface?
I’ve made tons of items on city and government contracts, not to mention stuff for Disneyland even and have done it all with an old beat up table on jigs we made ourselves from scrap.
If it’s aerospace stuff you’re designing, I’d love to have that sort of precision (and budget) which means you have to post pics!
not even close. But I do like things as close as I can get them. If you don’t understand how having a flat table would effect your project than your probably are not building anything that requires it.
I currently have a table that is not as flat as I would like and the holes are not as close as I would like them. But it’s also much larger so it shows up more.
So in turn it takes me much longer to fixture than I like. I also like equipment even though it might not make business sense, I have to feed my addiction😂
I do agree your budget plays a very big role in it and I agree always stay within your budget.
One more thing I am also very good at finding deals on stuff.
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Keeping it civil, I’ll share this.
I do understand the importance of a flat table, and how it effects your project. What I shared above was just ‘lightly’ touching on work I’ve done with very little at my disposal.
One can improvise, and still achieve precision if you know what you’re doing (and if you’re patient).
I don’t have many pictures of my last fab job before retiring, but it was all TIG on a Miller Dynasty and MIG (mild and stainless) on a Miller 350P creating large assemblies for food processing/harvesting.
These assemblies are between 8’ to 12’ that each one of us would make, and would require accuracy to less than 1/16" (for mild due to powdercoat) and even less than that for stainless across the entire length or width of said assembly.
We had to sign NDA’s due to proprietary information/schematics as we used blueprints utilizing AWS symbols on all we fabbed up; everything was made in-house but yes, precision was required
Anyway the point being that many easily obtainable table tops will be ‘flat enough’ for a lot of precise work even. But if it’s getting down to the hundredths of an inch, that’s where the high-dollar tables come into play.
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I might not even end up using that extension I cut out
Not because it isn’t worth it, but because the laser cut table is already so nice
Ordered some clamps and they just arrived
Test fitting them and they’re nice and tight
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Just finished welding up the laser cut table top; anyone want to weld up my miniature table I cut out?
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So, a member in the Facebook group asked a question about cutting out their own table on CNC plasma.
Those that cut enough on plasma realize what expectations should be. With that said, since I have both a CNC plasma cut and CNC laser cut table, it’s only fitting I add a little comparison.
Earlier in the thread, you’ll see my need for reaming out the holes for a true 5/8" size. This is expected especially if you go with a thicker table top due to slight beveling that naturally occurs.
Thought I’d take pictures of each corner of my small 21" x 21", 3/16" thick top placed on top of my 2’ x 3’, 3/8" thick top -
Bottom left corner, light from underneath
Same corner, light from above
Bottom right corner, light from underneath
Same corner, light from above
Top left corner, light from underneath
Same corner, light from above
Top right corner, light from underneath
Same corner, light from above
I do feel like once all the holes on the 3/16" plate are reamed out, they would be a closer match but not as accurate as I would’ve wanted it to be. Seems over the span of almost 20" across there’s a deviation of 1/32". Again, not bad at all considering the very issue I had throughout the entire cut.
And if you missed what that issue was, my Z axis was binding and it cut 99% of the table at nearly 1/2" cut height
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so a very nice comparison…
you and I have been watching and commenting on the FB threads on this…
I am always for home built…it can be very rewarding and fun…
again…nice comparison…
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A dialed-in table would most likely make up for that 1/32"…easily doable on a Pro as it won’t have the deflection that a non-Pro has.
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For everyone else -
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If you want real accuracy, with minimal work, go local and get it laser cut ($158 which included labor and material)
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If you want DIY, with some work for as little as possible, go plasma and do it at home (free since I sold tabs off that remaining metal)
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If you want guaranteed flatness, and minimal work on your part, go Certiflat or other similar offerings
I didn’t touch on fixtures like the Arcflat or offerings by Stronghand due to the nature of this forum, not to mention a fixture is different from that of a table.
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