Water table replacement

So I have proceeded to totally destroy my water table on my new pro table by trying to tig up the joint. Has anyone ordered a new water tray from
Langmuir? Or should I have my local HVAC send up a new one piece. Has anyone used aluminum as a water tray? Cost to have a one piece stainless piece made? Thanks.

Do not use aluminum! It will corrode and burn through. I’m sure others will have some good advice on how to replace or repair your tray, but forget this idea!

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So is your water pan repairable? Can you share pictures? No shame. Maybe one of us could help fix it. Where are you located?

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i made the mistake of doing a test cut without water. The torch stopped right above the seam and kept burning. it melted all the sealer in a 4’inch area. The area was warped and the seam had opened up. I tig welded just that area, but got carried away in one area. I used a stronger adhesive and the other area that didnt get nuked held water. Im thinking as a last ditch effort is to run a bead of the sealer underneath the seam in the damaged area to see if it will seal. I think the money that Langmuir will get for 2 replace trays, I can have a local fabricator shear me a 3x4 sht of stainless and have it bent into a one piece tray.
I was also thinking of cleaning up the seam and rewelding the seam. But my experience with stainless is its a bear to cut with a wizz wheel.

Understood… you know it doesn’t have to be stainless. The xr water pan is steel. Treat the water correctly it will last a long time. You can build several I would say for the cost of a stainless.

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sounds good. Im using the blue liquid for tables. Plus I plan on setting up the sprayer tank set up for the table to drain it after every cutting sessions.

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I made one out of 316SS a couple of years ago. The problem is that upgrading to 11ga is a $500 per sheet investment. But you will be good to go for a long time. I just put a single drain in the center.
I bet you won’t do that again. I’m sure a local shop can make you one out of thinner 16 ga to save money.

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I made mine from 11ga 316 Stainless steel. It’s the same size but 1/4 inch deeper. You must ensure it’s not too deep, or it will interfere with the Y carriages. I also welded tabs on the bottom to attach them to the rails instead of drilling holes in them. If you keep the exact dimensions, 2-3/8 is as deep as possible.