Good Question… I have no experience with this but, I assume that the frequency of cleaning out your storage tank, of silt and debris, depends on how much cutting you do and how often you drain the table to the tanks.
I expect that while the water is in the storage tank the silt/dirt will settle to the bottom but, I wonder if when you apply air pressure to push the water from the storage tank back to the water table, if all the silt/dirt that has settled to the bottom of the storage tank will also be pushed pack up to the water table, or if the air pressure and water movement are not enough to disturb the silt/dirt.
When I dispose of the water, I was just going to drain it out into the yard after running the water through a filter, and then throw the dirt/debris captured by the filter into the trash container.
Hopefully some people that have actual experience with this will share their process.
As long as your out flow tube is not so low as to be buried in the silt at the bottom of the tank, I would think that you should be able to find a rate of air pressurization that does not explosively disrupt the silt allowing only water to exit? I hope so anyway.
Well I will have filters in my sink strainers then a 5 Micron filter after that, that will filter water going to tank.
I am using a pump to fill table so what ever, if any silt there is, should be minimal. I am hoping to have pics of how I set mine posted by end of next week.
Can you exit the tanks into elbows pointed up, then valves, then unions, then Ys? Could this shorten the distance the plumbing extends? Just thinking out loud.
I use Scotch-Brite pads as filter media. Made steel covers to protect them from plasma stream when cutting over them. Works very well.
Never thought of needing a cover if it was low in the water table. Did you have trouble with Scotch-Brite burning with out the covers?
The covers have two purposes. Given what the pads are made, the covers make sure they don’t melt under a slow cut. And with the pin in the center it keeps them in place over the drains without obstructing the flow. I can drain and fill the table and they don’t move.
Thanks for that idea, I will keep it in mind.
Currently thinking of getting rid of the valve for each tank, because I was assured that when I drain the water table, the water will rise equally in both tanks. I was concerned that water may enter the 1st tank more rapidly and fill it before the 2nd tank, and since I was going to leave the top hole open as a breather, the water would then overflow and spill onto the floor via the breather.
Thank you again for your suggestion
Hey Greg
Well I finally have the water tank plumbed. I tried to label the fitting and failed.
So I will try and add some info to the pics and see if that works.
On the far left end is a 1-1/2" male adapter
The rest of this is plumbing like you would see under your kitchen sink.
I just used bar drains like everyone else from Menards
This is where I bring in a 3/4 PVC check valve from the pump in the tank. Than it goes to the 4x10 water filter with 1" pipe threads. from there it goes to the tank.
Fitting in the tank are called Bulkhead fittings and you can get them at Menards also
I like your plumbing. Interesting use of a de-commissioned truck bed chest too.
Here’s a couple pics of the water storage/filtration setup I did. It uses a 110v circulation pump to filter and fill the table. Filling and draining is done by opening or closing one 1 1/2” ball valve. It fits in the channel directly below the water table and only the filter housing and a couple sediment drains are visible. Hope this helps those looking for ideas to store their water.
Nice set up, have you made any cuts on table yet?
Not yet, unfortunately I’m missing the wiper seals for ball nuts so I’m at a standstill until they’re delivered. Also, the Powermax 85 I ordered won’t be in until the first of August so I’m a few weeks away from my first cuts.
That is the slickest setup i’ve seen. Nice job!
