I know this topic comes up regularly. I’ve read other posts on this issue and still haven’t nailed my cutting issues.
Crossfire XR
SheetCAM Pro v8.0.1
FireControl v24.1.6
Quarter inch mild steel
Hypertherm 45 SYNC with Standard 428925 torch
NOTE: You’ll see reverse cut direction in the photo called Jet cut settings. Illustrator files import with directions reversed. Hence, the setting.
Background: I created Path rules for cutting holes in quarter inch, namely, cut holes under 1" at 60% IPM.
The 8mm holes are much smaller at the bottom than at the top of the cut. Top of cut might be 8.2mm and bottom at 7.3-7.8mm. The holes aren’t round on the bottom of the sheet metal.
The side view of my test piece shows that there’s more bevel on one edge than the others. Also, my corner settings don’t seem to be creating clean corners.
I’m out of town. If you need a photo of the torch nozzle for troubleshooting, it’ll be a few days. Sorry about that.
I’m new to cutting precision parts - definitely not my forte. A guy in my shop is making some kind of rock/concrete crushing device. I’m working on achieving his parameters for precision in the parts I cut for him. What suggestions do you have for me?
I see that you have created a rule set, but it is not selected in your jet cutting operation. Under rules, the field shows “none”. You have to click on “none” and your rule set should be in the drop down menu.
You will never get a precise hole that measures the same top and bottom with plasma cutting. If you need precise holes, they have to be drilled. I oversize my holes in the design, so the bottom of the hole will have the proper clearance.
I don’t use Sheetcam so I won’t understand some of the things mentioned regarding jet cutting and such.
I will add though that based on what I’m seeing -
You may have some backlash issues? Unsure how the XR works exactly but you can see that clearly with the transition from X → Y at the corners of your square.
This will also lead to oblong holes.
Let’s also assume you confirmed your setup was assembled absolutely square, and that the table is sitting level (preventing any bowing from one end to the other).
An out of level, out of square table can also attribute to cuts that are not precise.
Lastly, keep in mind that the whole 60% slower is more of a guideline and less of a rule.
Ideally you need to perform some test cuts for the same hole size at different speeds, both slightly faster and slightly slower, than your adjusted speed.
For example you have a feedrate of 46ipm for 1/4”. If you’re running 60% for a small hole, that’s under 28ipm. You may find to have a much less tapered hole at 32ipm, or as slow as 25ipm.
This is especially true for thinner materials as you have less material to cut out so your hole speed may be closer to 70% of your base cut speed. For 1/8” you may be at 85% of your base cut speed.
Test cuts. Always perform test cuts. Cause even though Hypertherm has done all the work for you, everything was done in a controlled environment on a downdraft table with best-case-scenario in mind.
I would double check and see how freely the carriage moves on the X axis with the machine turned off. The gantry tube is not a machined surface and will have variation in thickness which will affect the carriage movent if the bearing preload is right on the edge of being to tight.
Now, I’m not a Hypertherm or a SheetCam guy, but it looks like your torch setting is too high, consumables are trashed, and you’re cutting way too slow.
You have the correct cut height setting, but as you can see in the image above, it is cutting too high. The cut IPM for a Sync on 10ga is like 115. Just because your settings are correct, the torch may be higher for many reasons. I would think the cartridge is toast or you are using a non-sync chart. Not to mention, the steel you’re holding up sure looks like 1/4-inch to me. Also, your kerf setting should be .073, not .043. The SheetCam setting picture you posted is for 10 Ga.
He did say he was cutting 1/4” maybe he just changed the 10 ga settings and inserted 1/4” settings.
This would be a good one to try nominal voltage if he is not already. Maybe he has not verified his cut height yet if he has been cutting thinner material
As others have pointed out, slowing down for the holes will help a lot. I noticed that on your straight cuts there is also a slight lag. Notice in this picture, the lower half of the cut shows vertical striations. That is probably as optimal that you will get.
Your straight cut is showing that the plasma stream is not quite catching up to the torch position. I would back your cut speed, in general, down a bit…not too much though.
Note: But don’t make this adjustment until you have checked your actual cut height to make sure that is dialed in. If the torch is too high, you will also create this situation.
Re rule: Yes, I uploaded the wrong screenshots. The first time I forgot to apply the rule. The second test I remembered. And did set the cut for 1/4” mild steel. I was going back and trying to recreate my settings so that I could provide all the info that might be useful. As it turns out, I did not quite nail it. Sorry, guys. I’m really trying NOT to waste your time here.
What is the best way to measure torch height? I believe that’s the last item on my list to test and troubleshoot. I’ll write an update on progress in a bit. Just wanted to nail this to-do down first.
it is either your settings or the consumables are warn but looking at all the slag under the part you are defiantly tiring to cut too fast for the power setting.
word of advice download the settings for the Hypertherm Powermax 45 xp.
the Razorweld 45 was designed after the Hypertherm and the settings for the cnc are very close
the Razorweld 45 is a bit less powerful but the settings work. you may just need to dial back the cut speed for you specific machine. when I did followed there specs my cuts’ cam out beautiful.
when it starts cutting bad it is 99% of the time the consumables need to be changed the 1% is a bad ground or low air.
I use the “Duramax® Machine Torch Cut Charts for the
Powermax45”
I use Hypertherm 45 SYNC and the Hypertherm 45 A 428925 mechanized cartridges. Good to know NOT to purchase knockoffs. My water table has KCI Plasma Green 1050 additive.
