Thank you all for your replies. Your responses give me hope. I contacted Hypertherm and here is there response.
Hello Mike,
Duramax torches are approved for use on the Powermax 45.
I’d recommend the Duramax over the T45, since the Duramax has a fixed center contact, and should be more robust in the long run.
The Torch Cap light on a Powermax 45 serves 2 purposes.
Unscrew the retaining cap, and the light comes on solid.
If there is a problem with consumable contact or consumable separation, the light will flash.
It sounds like it should be flashing in this case, right after a Start signal and puff of air / no arc.
The torch start sequence is fairly simple on the first Start, but slightly more complicated on 2nd 3rd 4th etc.
When the torch air flow is off, the electrode extends and touches the inside of the nozzle.
@ Start- a Pilot Arc IGBT (internal transistor) closes to temporarily ground the torch body and the nozzle, the Powermax inverter powers up, and then airflow starts.
The air pressure compresses the spring, the electrode separates from the nozzle, and an initial spark right there develops into the Pilot Arc and then a full Transferred Cutting Arc.
After your CNC makes the first cut, the arc will go off, but the Post Flow air flow continues through the torch until the next Arc Start signal is delivered.
At that moment, the Powermax has to stop the air flow immediately, and as the pressure in the torch vents out, the Electrode needs to extend and touch the Nozzle again*.
A split second later,
Again the Pilot Arc IGBT (internal transistor) closes to temporarily ground the torch body and the nozzle, the Powermax inverter powers up, and then airflow starts.
The air pressure compresses the spring, the electrode separates from the nozzle, and an initial spark right there develops into the Pilot Arc and then a full Transferred Cutting Arc.
** If the air valve isn’t responsive – a little too slow to close and remove air pressure from the torch, then the Electrode will be slow to extend and touch the Nozzle.
If the Electrode isn’t touching the nozzle in time, that’s when it gives the puff of air, no arc, and the Flashing Cap icon.
A few recommendations:
@ Gas Test: is the pressure “Maxed Out” or set in the middle? Maxing it out will work against us as it will take longer to vent and allow the electrode to extent.
Do you feed the machine with very clean dry oil free air? This helps the air valve maintain performance, and not get gummed up and sluggish.
Sounds like you have a very new torch, so no worries about torch body damage (denting/ corrosion, friction.)
The Electrode has to move freely in the Swirl Ring. Again yours is fairly new, if the swirl ring had 3-4 months of heavy used or if it was contaminated by bad air, we’d recommend a replacement.
If we check everything else and still have issues when firing during post flow, the next thing to do is replace the Solenoid Valve.
228285 Kit: Solenoid valve