Why not let it touch the material? That’s why they have those nubs.
Because it would move the material… they are more for hand cutting not cnc
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I usually clamp the material down - maybe not needed but it’s a habit from dealing with warped materials in lasers and CNC routers require it.
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Do you have a pic of how you clamp material? I’ve been trying to figure out how
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I usually use rare earth magnets or large C-clamps. But Langmuir suggested using a 3ft metal bar across the edge of the material and clamped to the frame of the Crossfire that I’m going to try.
I’ve extracted all the posts I could find here with settings noted for the Razorweld machines. (Only a half-dozen though 
)
I’ve put them into a Google Sheet (spreadsheet) and will share it. I’m setting up another thread to help keep track of settings and people’s comments. If people either post the info or update the sheet we should end up with a nice reference.
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Awesome James!!! That would be great. I will be cutting some 3/16 mild steel here in a few days so once I try some settings, I will post those as well
Thanks. Yours are 2/3 of the entries I’ve found so far 
The link to the new thread is in my post above.
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just got my machine running with the razorweld 45. had the same exact issue. changed out two different sets of consumables before one combo would work good. I just cut 1/4" at 45 amps and 20ipm. did well. as soon as i can find some better higher amperage consumables i will see if i can make some adjustments.
Are you using a 1mm nozzle?
no. im just using the standard .8 the 1.0 are on order now.
Ya the .8 is going to blow out quick running at 45 amps. I wouldn’t use the .8 anything over 35 amps
Yeah - I’ve been using no more than 30A until my 1.0s came in (today). Need to go slower but the tips last longer.
Looking to see if there are any .6s out there - for really thin kerfs in light metal.
Do you check your nozzles with a jeweler’s loupe for out of round?
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completely agree. thats why i have 1.0 tips on order
Nah, I just periodically check the opening and if it looks out of round, I just swap it and the electrode out.
the Hypertherm guys are OCD about how we should check them every time we use the torch and recommend using a loupe to see the changes better.
I’m not quite as disciplined about that - I look when I remember - not every time but often.
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How many cuts or pierces would you say you guys are getting out of your tips?
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Man that’s really hard to say. Amperage, air quality, speed, all play a part. I will say this though. I had crappy air and cut (4) 3/16 aluminum pieces that were about 4” x 8” with some font, and (2) 1/4” aluminum pieces the same size and material, and a few 1/8” steel pieces, then I had to change my tips. Now with good dry air I have cut (2) 24” x 24” pieces of 1/8” aluminum, some 1/16 stainless, 1/8” steel, 3/16 stell and still have a good tip. I have also adjusted my speeds as to slow of speed can cause pre mature failure to the tips as well
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That’s so true 
The lifespan tends to be in hours of arc-on time (the actual time you’re cutting). So it all depends on use. But they’re cheap and readily available. There’s a reason they’re usually sold in packs of 10 or 20 or more (and called consumables).
Swirl rings are much longer lasting so no reason to have more than one extra on hand.
Any Trafimet 45 torch compatible nozzle & tip fits the Razorweld cutters. Hypertherm has special nozzles & tips (& they call them something else ).
Did you ever figure out why your torch would randomly go out? I am having the same issue.
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