MY number is 67568 not sure where they started numbering tho.
I see some saying email Amanda or Mia about the options you want, what are the options lists? I bought mine at PRI and the options were back gauge and the stand, die sets were still in the works. Has this changed? Do they have a die set selection yet, someone also mentioned punch sets and dimple dies. Or is it still too soon to know what’s going to be available and at what price.
I haven’t seen any updates on the tooling yet. I don’t think it’s necessary to email them, you’ll have an option to add any of the accessories that are available when you are
machine is ready.
I ordered just as soon as it became available. Order #69362 confirmed. There were no options available when I ordered, but I sent them an e-mail asking for all available options, and a few days later, they confirmed.
Order #69730
Hi all, recently put deposit down on the Titan 25T. Looking to buy 4x12 sheets from Alro in Bay City, Mi. To make signs. The goal is to powder coat them after bending. Not sure if it’s best to get hot rolled or cold rolled, then I hear the term pickled in hot rolled.the signs would be approx 20”x8”. Any suggestions?
That’s where I get my steel!
First off, they have big price breaks the more steel you buy. I always get minimum of 5 sheets of 4x8ft. One of the biggest differences is price between HRS vs CRS. I’m hobbyist and do signs and these days everything else that someone needs. I use HRS for almost everything. I don’t do any powder coating so that might be easier to prep with CRS but you’ll pay for it. You should message me, and we can talk more about bending because there is much more to it than just cutting an extra 1" and bending it. I don’t have the 25T on order because I already have 48" finger break and 21" 20T press. The 25T looks like an awesome machine for the money!
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On your material it depends on how much work you want to do. Hot rolled is cheaper, cold rolled is usually more dimensionally accurate, p and o has the mill scale already removed. The p and o will have less prep work but has a oily film that needs to be removed and more expensive .
With all that if you are going to do quality powder coating you need to go through pretty much the same process with each. My suggestion would be go to the local metal yard and get a small piece of each and determine what’s best for you. You may even get them to give you a small piece of scrap.
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For me the difference between standard and P&O is like 5-10 bucks on a 4x8 sheet. I always buy HR in sheets and always try to order P&O. Its got a really nice finish. The more you buy at once is always cheaper.
Alro is Premium stuff I don’t buy from them any more due to cost. But I have the luxury of having several steel venders close to me.
If what your building does not spec CR I would go with hot. There is also a place not to far from me that has used or rejects. Once in awhile I might go that route. Used is normally 1/2 of there new cost but there new cost is considerably more than my normal vendor.
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If I use P&O I don’t soak in vinegar, so big time saving for me on the prep side. Plus I cant soak vey big pieces in vinegar unless its tube. P&O for me has about the same oil film as HR.
Yeah that is why I said pretty much the same process. The vinegar step already done. It takes extra precaution to make sure the oil is gone by cleaning and outgassing. Do you blast your parts or use prep all to etch?
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For me soaking in vinegar adds a fair amount of time.
Get tank out and fill with parts
Add vinegar
Soak
Empty tank of vinegar
Add mixture of baking soda
Soak 10 mins
Rinse parts and dry
Put everything away.
P&O
Light wipe down with Enamel reducer
I almost always use a iron Oxide rinse/wash before P/C
I hardly ever blast parts in regards to P/C, I do agree, this does give the best surface finish.
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I have a couple of plastic (Sterilite or some such) shallow tubs (underbed storage containers) that I have filled with vinegar & water) parts get dropped in the vinegar bath and then pulled out and into the rinse after a few hours (or days if I’m doing something else). I top off the vinegar when it gets low and clean out the rinse tank when it seems to be grodey. No real extra effort.
After I pull them from the rinse I usually wipe them with an acetone or denatured alcohol soaked rag and then use SteelFx sprays for the finish before I get any flash rust.
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I am actually looking for a 4x4 plastic water tank that I can leave outside. I use kiddie pools now just seem to evaporate quick in the summertime.
I do the same thing. I keep the tote outdoors so I don’t have to worry about evaporation causing rust in my shop.
You can buy acetic acid powder if you want to cut down on your wait time in the vinegar bath. You can supercharge it to a higher acidity.
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This is what I remember Tin said he used for the vinegar bath. The cover keeps stuff and animals out of it. It could too attractive for little ones. Maybe splash some paint to “ugly” it up a bit so the kids would not think it as cute.
Edit: I think this is a really small size. There might be a bigger one.
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Order 67391, Ordered at PRI, hoping to get the call to place real order soon
See new Titan topic
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67450, ordered at PRI
order 69767