JB Weld is stepping up its game

I love the Gorilla glue series for something that needs to be strong, won’t shrink and not become brittle. But it has its drawbacks with the foaming and shifting the pieces. I have found Super Glue to not be so ‘super’ especially if the bond plane is exposed to shearing or shock. And all of the pre-mixed products have a limited shelf life.

50 years ago, everyone talked about JB Weld: Not so much talk today. But, they still make a great product but no one enjoys the mess of mixing and then trying to apply it to the part that needs the ‘fix.’ In comparison, the two part adhesives have a much longer shelf life. I usually throw away half of most bottles of Gorilla glue.

Many of you probably already know this but this simple and inexpensive mixing nozzle (about 50 cents each) is a game changer. You lose only the amount of product still in the mixing nozzle and nothing else. Now the listing states that it is “for all 50 ml resin cartridges.” The usual consumer pack is 25 ml (12.5 per side) but I promise, these fit the 25 ml cartridges as well.

Now when you need to bond a hanger or bolt to the back of your sign and don’t have a stud welder, you can put a squirt of JB Weld. When you need to fix a blemish: JB Weld. When you want to bond two layers of a metal sign or add a 3D printed plastic bumper/name plate/decoration to metal: JB Weld.

This is not their entire list but just gives you an idea. And notice, two of them are including a mixing nozzle. I have never tried to clean one so I consider it a one time use. I have used one of my JB Weld (for plastic) at least 8 times over the last two years and it is still flowing and curing correctly.

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Jb weld does have some good uses. I use it as “Bondo” when powder coating. It can take the oven heat and the powder will stick to it.

I did see a guy try to use it to repair a exhaust manifold on a dozer once. Yeah melted like butter.

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I can see that. You really need to use the correct one. I tried a more traditional JB Weld on our dryer door handle that was plastic. It broke immediately. I then got the black/gray plastic bonder and it fixed like new:
image

This one would have worked for the exhaust?? Maybe not…see below.

Note: I am not selling the stuff nor do I have any hidden agenda. I am just glad to have another tool in my arsenal to attach/fix things. That is my ‘deal’, so to speak.

Edit: JB Weld may not be a good fix for diesel heavy equipment exhaust:
image

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Nope exhaust get way hotter. It needed nickel welding rod

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I see that. It gets up to 1500 deg F :astonished:

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Big cam Cummins and 3406 cat diesel engines with turbos spooled up will hit over 1800 f temp… not good on turbo bearings and seals for extended period of time.

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I’ve seen worse (800+°C). Remember, at the end of the day, JB weld is just plastic (thermalset epoxy).

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I use these larger bottles from Lowes. Seems like a good deal. I do use JB for most of the things you mentioned, and it works great as you said for those of us with no stud welder. I use this clear stuff in case I get a little oozing out to the face of a sign.

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I never thought to buy it that way. It just shows how we can sometimes get tunnel vision with how we do things.

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:scream: No! That can’t be! But my internet search told me “500-700 deg. C” :rofl:

I will concede the point: Don’t use on [Edited for @Phillipw:wink:] areas that get hotter than 500 degrees F. Got it.

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Well you have to decide what is considered high heat. Who sets that bar?

Well I used to sell ovens and furnaces for a living. The threshold between the two being the type of insulation necessary to keep the heat in, rockwool vs refractory. Typically around 1500F (815ish C)

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The other one that’s old but really good is PC-7.
PC Products PC-7 Epoxy Adhesive Paste, Two-Part Heavy Duty, 2oz in Two Jars, Charcoal Gray 27776

https://a.co/d/hsxT3nQ

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