I’m trying to figure out what is causing this issue. Any ideas? This is 16ga hot rolled steel. I’ve tried adjusting all of the settings.
Could it be Torch Height Control? I use smart voltage, but I see that I should only use Smart Voltage for 14ga and larger. I turned off THC and it seemed to fix the above issue. Does that even make sense? But I need THC for cutting larger 16ga cuts. What do I set my voltage to if I can’t use Smart Voltage?
There is no “set rule” stating when to use/not use THC.
Some people find better results without THC for small cut outs, like a hole on thicker material.
In my own experience, I leave THC on for everything thick and thin.
I’d venture to ask that you post a screenshot of your CAM so we can see those lead ins/outs. They don’t look the cleanest, and also having a Z-axis assembly with some play can do funny things to it on touch off/pierce.
I plan to use THC all of the time. The “Smart Voltage” setting says that it should only be used for 14ga and above. So, it sounds like when using 16ga I should set the voltage manually. Not sure how to do that!
I’d run a longer lead-in.
And if you ever wanted to specify a certain voltage, go into Firecontrol and change Smartvoltage to Nominal.
It’ll require a voltage setting by the user, which determines how high or low the cut height would be.
Running Nominal will ignore your programmed cut height.
How will longer lead-ins help?
The one slot you have has the lead in touching the other side of the slot, So you need to shorten that one or change the angle/radius it enters the cut path.
What software are you using?
what cutter are you running?
Grab a hold of your torch and wiggle it around and see if you feel any play
Are these your very first cuts?
I use smart voltage on everything and it works fine on 16ga material. What I see in those pictures looks like a torch that is moving around on a loose Z axis carriage. Most of the lines on those rectangles are not straight.
I definitely have a loose Z axis. I’ll fix that and see if I get improvements.
The wheels that ride on the rods on the right side are adjustable. Loosen the nut on the back and use the flats on the end of the threads to turn the eccentric mounting bolt.
Mentioned that at the beginning…
I have tightened up my z axis. I have adjusted my lead-ins / outs. I now a have a clean outside cut.
I’m still trying to fix the divot on my inside cuts.
Thoughts? I see a lot of talk about it on the internet, but I don’t really seem to see any clear solutions.
Might be too long a pierce delay, too steep an angle on the lead in, to much amperage on the plasma cutter, worn cutting tip…
Post your post process screen shot that shows the settings for that, and a screenshot of the cutting details that has the lead in/out, angle…
I decided to purchase SheetCam. Made a test cut today and it pretty much fixed all my issues. I just needed better control over my lead-ins / outs.
I have been using Fusion for 10 years now and have never had any issues like you have that changing the lead-in and lead-out would not fix. SheetCam is great, a lot of guys love it. It’s a whole new training exercise.
Like @Bigdaddy2166 said, you could’ve kept with Fusion and adjusted your lead-ins like I first mentioned!
But Sheetcam is a great tool that lots of people love using. I never used it so I can’t comment on it.
I struggled to make lead-in / out adjustments in Fusion. It seemed to have a mind of its own. I could not control it with as much details as SheetCam. Thanks for all of the feedback!
I get it. Many people swear by SheetCam and swear about Fusion. Haha. It’s what your comfortable with and is working for you.
A very short one, to be sure! 
