As promised here is the video doing a color change out. I just uploaded it so it’s not processed in HD yet, YouTube takes a bit on that.
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Funny that your tip stays in the gun whereas mine comes off with the nose cone and I gave to push it to get it out…
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Do you charge for powder coating? You are very through on cleaning!
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It has come out since the first time I used it, I wonder if I tightened it too much the first time.
@Knick Thanks! I haven’t even started selling anything yet (I’m still in the making stuff for friends while I learn stage), but the powder coating will be included with the price when I start selling powder coated signs. I’d like to also take in other peoples material for powder coating but I’m not quite there yet. Once I get things dialed in and I have high confidence in what I can and can’t deliver quality results on I will put together some type of pricing system. I can’t really do that now because I may find out tomorrow that my process can be improved by changing this thing or the other and that will likely effect the cost. I have high confidence in single color paint jobs but I’m still working the kinks out of multi-colored projects. I just finished redesigning the Marine Corps Seal so that will be my next cut and I have an idea for a four color paint job.
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On mine the hole in the cone is really snug to the point that when using the flat tip I have to loosen rotate and re-tighten it until its straight up and down. I’ve always thought that’s the way it’s supposed to be. My trigger used to get stuck in the on position when it’s cold outside but a tweaking on it eliminated that problem.
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I haven’t had any issues with the trigger, but the nozzles have been a mixed bag. They work fine they just seem to go together and come apart inconsistently.
On an unrelated note the high voltage from the gun fried about a third of the LED’s in my paint booth on Saturday…I don’t even know how to address that problem, the whole thing is heavily grounded so I don’t understand how it happened. Started with 15,000 lumens and I’m probably down to 10,000’ish if I had to guess.
@GaltsGarage i am not exactly sure how your leds are set up but you might try a "cage of chicken wire or hardware cloth around the leds and their cabling and power supply with the wire mesh grounded…i would think this would act as a faraday cage and intercept any stray voltage or any other weird energy that the leds might be susceptible to
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Can you feel it pulling your shirt when you spray?
Yes, and I can hear it popping like a stun gun.
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Here is the full video painting the Space Force Seal, you can see in the video the light blue chunks that spat out a couple of times. In the end at least the front turns out real nice. I just now realized I forgot to put any music or audio in this video…I will fix it tomorrow. Here is the new video with audio…
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I finished editing the video of the paint booth build.
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That’s a great file!!
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Thanks! So far it’s in my top 3 favorites I’ve done so far. Air Force, Coast Guard and Navy will be coming in the next week or so. Navy is ready for paint I just have to pick a color but I’m probably going to do one of each in flat black.
@GaltsGarage fantastic video. and excellent design…did you create that yourself?
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That’s one of my originals, I did all 6 service branches. I’ll post videos for each as they are painted. I’ve cut them all already.
Found out the hard way today that I can’t run the plasma table and the oven at the same time. I had the oven heating up and a sign being cut on the table, it was struggling to penetrate on the lead ins. I turned the oven off and the struggles were gone, I guess I should have anticipated that but it’s as simple as turning off one of the heating elements. Also I fixed the heating element indicator light issue and hooked up the alarm to the timer so I should have the wiring video posted maybe just after Christmas. I also think I solved the mystery of why my PID was reading 30-60F low this whole time, turns out you can’t use copper wire with your thermocouple. I ordered a thermocouple extension wire (one conductor is AL based the other is Nickel/Chromium based) and I’ll try to get that installed this week and see if the problem is solved. I also ordered a 4" air temp thermocouple in case this doesn’t work.
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I totally forgot to mention that way back when you were doing your wiring.
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Disconnect two of the heating elements. You’re probably a little overkill with 4. My oven is 3x3x5 and it came with 2 elements and it can heat to 400 degrees in 7-8 minutes.
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Your heating elements are probably a higher wattage than mine, I’m running 4 2000W elements for a total of 8000 watts which puts my watts per cubic foot right in the sweet spot. I do have a switch for each of the two banks of elements though so I can switch them off or on one pair at a time. It takes my oven about 15-20 to get to 400 but the parts I’m cooking reach 400 long before my oven does. If my oven is at 300 or above when I put a 14 gauge sign in the sign will cure before the oven hits 400 because I’m reading the wall temp and not the air temp. I’m considering using an air temp thermocouple instead of the sold surface temp one, I ordered it last week and it came this weekend.
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