You would come out of your compressor go into whatever drying equipment you plan on using. Plumb out of the dryer into the spare tank. The idea is air can’t move through the dryer fast enough to keep up the pressure. You lose volume.
Here is a run down of my air. Keep in mind yesterday my plasma cutter had 3 hours arc time. I run it a lot.
I have a 80 gallon 7.5 HP compressor. I come out of the compressor 3/4 goes to a 5/8 after cooler a trans cooler ( they are clean looking and less space than pipe coolers). On to a 1/2 after cooler,( I have two here because without it I can freeze up my refrigerated dryer up without it) into a pressure regulator/water separator dropping pressure from 175 to 125. On to a refrigerated air dryer then to a quart size bead dryer, last is a standard water separator with a filter. After all that it hits my supply lines that I have drops all over my garage. In that system I use 2 30 gallon dry air tanks. My plasma connects at one of those tanks. I use this cheap screw on filters at each of my connection to catch any dust that may come out of the dry air tanks.
When you set it up you need some way to cool your air a little ( copper pipe cooler or a tans cooler or such) then go into a decent size bead dryer then some way to filter right before your plasma ( beads will make it through and dust from them). If you can add a dry air tank it will help pressure drops and give you better volume.
My system has no less than 1/2 pipe straight to my plasma. 3/4 would be better.
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Wow! Scared to even ask for a ballpark on a configuration such as that! That air must be pristine after all of that!
What material is your piping made of? Can you give me a link to the type of screw on filters you are speaking of. What sort of pressure do you end up at your connections out in the shop? If it like voltage drop? Does it get less, the farther away from the source you get or is that where the other tank comes in - to keep the pressure consistent in the shop? Last question. Is your compressor inside the shop or out? If I got the smaller one for a band-aid, it would be inside my shop which is air conditioned. Not sure if that would help any or not.
I took a look at that dead 26 Gallon Kobalt I have. Pulling that head off is not problem (as you probably already knew). The outlet size going into the pressure switch is a little smaller than the input. Not sure if that will create a bottle neck or not.
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Well if you say it fast the price isn’t bad. The compressor I can’t price we bought that when I was a teenager I recently replaced the compressor and motor for 1.3k. Lowe’s has a 80 gallon 175 psi for 2k. My air drying setup is all cheap stuff for the most part somewhere between 1 and 1.5k.
Here is a thread I started the other day near the end of it it shows the fruit of my labor of air drying. My setup is by far from perfect I add to it as I can. What's your opinion on amps? - #35 by Phillipw
If I tell you what the piping is these guys will unfriend me🤣. My dad put in thick wall PVC right at 30 years ago. I have had 2 fittings blow in that time. Some people use PEX. There is a flex pipe system sold for compressed air no clue on the price.
The screw on filters come from harbor freight they are just the last chance jobs you can get nice disposable ones from motor guard also.
Look inside the coupling you can see the brown dust coming out of the dry tanks.
Because I have the dry air tanks I really don’t see any major pressure drops all my equipment can pull out of those tanks unrestricted except for the disposable filters. The farther you run the more you will lose. I even have my setup underground 90 feet to my mom’s basement. The larger you keep your plumbing the better but you can go overboard too.
My compressor is in my garage I wish it wasn’t for a couple reasons. One space two noise three in the event it could fail rare but it does happen. The failure would be contained.
To slave a addition tank I removed the compressor, plugged the pressure switch connection, then brought my air in through the compressor inlet and just added a quick connect to the outlet.
With all that said I heavily modified almost every piece including the filters in my drying system to make sure everything is at least 1/2 inch. I wouldn’t recommend it unless you are confident in what you are doing.
Oh and A+++ for asking questions the way you did before you jump in too deep. I just hope I made some sense! Feel free to ask away the only dumb question is one not asked.
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Wow, that’s really impressive! I found this that I can cool the air down with before it goes into the tank. (I’m wondering if someone has come up with adapter fittings to go from automotive to plumbing yet? That’s the most common complaints in the comments.)
I will need to step back through your setup and get it in my mind right. You don’t know how much I appreciate your help Phillip! It’s hard for me to go from woodwork to electrical and air systems, all while learning two different CAD programs. (One for my CNC router and the other Fusion360.) It’s got my head swimming, but your input has helped to get me better oriented. I really appreciate it!
Now, I just need to find a compressor! Not sure if all the pricing is this different but did you see my post in this thread on the difference in price between Tractor Supply and Lowe’s for the same unit?
Over $500 more at Lowe’s! Couldn’t believe it!
Thanks again! Time to call in the dogs and piss on the fire. I’m whooped. I’m sure I’ll be rattling your cage with more questions (and don’t get offended if I ask some twice!) Memory is shot. Pretty soon I’ll be hiding my own Easter eggs… 
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Several people use similar to those. Actually I do as well. As far as the plumbing goes the fittings should be hydraulic fittings ( I always called them jic fittings). You will be better served to have them fan cooled
Yeah pricing is crazy. I believe knick even mentioned used could be the way to go.
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