First "actual project" Done!

Although it’s not huge deal, I got my first ever “CNC Plasma cutter” project finished, from “soup to nuts”.

I decided that the laptop stand I ordered with the machine needed an “upgrade”

I am hopelessly addicted to using a mouse, so not having one when working was not going well.

So yesterday, I decided that remedying that was going to be my first project.

Since I unloaded my first “steel order” I was ‘chomping at the bit’ to cut something out.

I drew it out, and after y’all learned me how to start in the corner of a sheet, here is the first project cut.

I screwed up the holes by accidentally making them too small I think, and I was considering just letting them be, but they are kinda bothering me.

The piece is too wide for my little brake, so I had to “adapt” and use my welding table edge and a ball peen hammer.

After a few “love taps”, I get the lips for the machine and the mouse/mouse pad bent pretty well.

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Not too bad.

but hose holes are “mocking me” in my head, so something has to be done…Break out the TIG machine and grinder.

Now for a little “rattle can Black”

and BAM!!!

Much better now!!!

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Mouse pad extension is a nice addition. I hate with a passion track pads and use a mouse with any laptop.

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Nice first project. I wouldn’t say I like touch screens and touch pads, also. All my machines have keyboards and mice. I agree with you :100:

so here are some tips on making holes…

  • learn to make layers in drawings…that means you can have a layer that cuts circles first…then moves on to other cuts…and lastly the outside cuts. this is handy at times…
  • learn to have your “lead-in” and “lead-out” settings so you can start in the middle of a circle and on the outside of other cuts…this is handy with layers
  • circles and inside cuts are best done in a counter-clockwise direction…outside cuts are done clockwise direction…this has to do with the shape of the arc when cutting…I have found that circles under 2" are best cut this way.
  • circles also need to be cut in a slower speed. circles under around 2" are best cut at around 50-60% slower than your outside cuts.
  • also start circles from the middle or with a nice lead-in…
  • set your cutting to allow your torch to “over cut” your pattern…this means the torch will cut a bit past the start of the cut…tends to leave a better finish
  • lastly…get a set of feeler gauges and measure your torch height…even though you set 0.06 in the software does not mean it will be that…you need to actually measure the cut height and adjust your cut settings to accommodate the difference…this will help square up the cut
    image
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@toolboy thank you for this “primer” on layering and advice on settings for circles.

Is this "layering done in Fusion 360 or in Sheetcam?

I am definitely going to learn how to do that, and I may have already accidentally done it when I was having a problem “double cutting.”

Layers are very much the way SheetCAM is designed.

In Fusion 360 you can sort-of create layers by having the sketches of parts of your design separated and then when you go to Manufacturing, you can pick the sketch you want for a “tool path.” But I guess, the “tool path” is like the “layer” approach in that you can pick different contours and segregate them so you can expose them to different actions (lead-ins, lead-outs, compensation, etc). But Fusion 360 never refers to the “tool path” as a layer even though it acts like one.

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Don’t get caught up in the “layers” thing. It’s not necessary for the majority of things in Sheetcam. As long as your drawing doesn’t have errors, Sheetcam will automatically detect what needs inside, outside or no offset. Just select “outside offset” in the jet cutting operation screen and let Sheetcam do the rest.

Using “path rules” for slowing down on holes is the better way to do it.

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Thanks gentlemen,

I did notice the need/want to be able to have different parts of a drawing have different 'lead ins" and “lead outs” so I will have to be more mindful of this “layering feature” in the future.