LOL, next time I’ll put a photo of a junker in the reply. I’m sure that would add value to the conversation…
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TinMan, I had a girlfriend about 30+ years ago who had one of those Honda 1600s. We installed a trailer hitch and pulled a two-spot snowmobile trailer all over New England. It was a great car. You made me smile, even if TomWS doesn’t like it.
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If I may ask, what kind of tube did you install to ensure the charge air would be directed to the bottom of the filter housing? Usually those filters have the outlet in the center, and the inlet is the annulus, which if you were to use right out, the charge air would just pass through the topmost layer of beads if fully filled.
Are you running it in reverse flow?
I’ve got a spare one of these that I’m tempted to use. Mine say they’re 75 psi max pressure however.
That’s to low for me
Yea, might have to return these for a higher pressure unit, or find something else that needs filtering.
What is the cost of these filters? Is it better to buy something then Ricky rig it to do something it isn’t designed for? How much will you save and how effective is it?
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DIYing it will save several hundred dollars.
10" 125psi water filter $30ish (Amazon.com) (spec sheet confirming 125psi https://www.pentair.com/content/dam/extranet/web/nam/pentek/spec-sheets/310120-3g-slimline-spec-sheet.pdf)
$35 in desiccant (amazon.com/gp/product/B013L2Z2MY)
$5 in PVC (youtube.com/watch?v=k9v9M4o_A0w)
Airline plumbing ($10? for a couple 3/8 fittings?)
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I do enjoy making things for myself as well…
With the cost difference and knowing the effectiveness.
For the average joe this is plenty.
Over 3 hours torch time and running a impact to tighten over 200 1/2 nuts. This is all that changed
Not trying to change you mind or criticize. Time is money I value my time just sharing my view point.
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What ‘junker?’ That is the front door to the hidden vault holding all the treasured manuals.
Sorry…I wasn’t suppose to reveal that. 
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Oh No! There will be no hiding from He Who Knows All! 
Huh, and I thought it was a 72 Dodge Charger… 
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Certainly, but apples to apples, does that housing hold 4 lbs of silica?
Well it is a quart size container. Buying a dryer to handle your cfms the only difference is how often you change beads as far as quantity goes. That is the size difference.
My view is they have confirmed effectiveness. Someone builds one and it doesn’t work correctly who foots the warranty?
The way the dryer I showed works in a reverse from the picture that was shared. The air comes in the top and exits the bottom. The question is that a better way to design one?
As far as apples to apples it is cfm to effectiveness not how often you change out the beads correct?
Oh and if it was to fail those beads yeah shrapnel! Who holds liability? It isn’t the manufacturer of the water filter.
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If the concept is sound and well within operational bounds, what does a warranty matter? $20 filter is less than shipping would cost to repair / replace. If it doesn’t work as intended, make it back into a water filter and clean your table water.
As for efficacy, it would be both CFM throughput and longevity between refills.
125psi is 125psi., and you should be running your table/plasma under 80 psi anyways. If it catastrophically fails under that, it’s the mfg’s fault. Units are units, and they are stated as a guarantee. If you’re a business and it matters for personnel safety, sure, get the one made for purpose.
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If a failure occurs and it shreds a buddy or child’s face . The manufacturer of a water filter is not liable if you run compressed air in it . That will be on you!
Like I said earlier I am not trying to change your mind just putting a different view point there.
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I wouldn’t recommend plastic water filter housing for compressed air.
Compressed air is 1000x more dangerous the compressed water. If they were suitable for compressed air housing a manufacturer would have produced one for compressed air and cornered the market on price.
I believe using a water filter as a large desiccant cell introduces unnecessary risk at a marginal cost saving and I would recommend new users to buy products made for this task instead.
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Kinda off topic but still on topic. I had a cheap water separator fail. Had it not been for the safety metal protective cage around it it is hard to tell where the plastic would have went. Need less to say it ripped the meal cover as well.
No offense to anyone who repurpose things. I firmly believe it is because of things of this nature I cannot get affordable liability insurance to cover me to support my family…
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Yes I use it in reverse direction.
I used a 1/2”x12” cut off riser, coupler and a1/2” aquatics filter strainer. I cut the riser to size.
I then packed the “output” hole with a piece of Brillo pad.
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This isn’t necessarily true. You are dealing with two different types of fluids. One is compressible (air) the other is not. Using a vessel (tank, pipe or filter cannister) that hasn’t been designed for, or tested for, holding a compressible fluid is dangerous. Sure, allot of people do it… and many may never have a problem… until they do. When you do have a problem, or experience failure you will wish you had spent the extra money. At the very least make a metal shroud for it.
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One word" claymore "
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yes, expansion is the culprit, but keep it within a certain margin of safety so that harmonics won’t fatigue what you’re working with, and all should be gravy.
Eventually, on a long enough timeline, everything fails.