Hi, trying to confirm the default dip switch settings fox x driver all 6 are off for y first 5 are off and the last is on.
What are the correct units and steps per… I seem to have 12800 and inches.
I’d like to use In1 as limit switches. What pin and port should be used?
Thank you
Welcome to the forum.
I don’t remember the exact settings for the switches, but Y should be set for 4Amps and X should be the next value down from that. The printing on the Driver enclosure has the settings table.
12800 units and Inches are correct.
You can use IN1 But the power supply for those inputs is 5V, not the normal 24V supply for those isolated signals (they use a 5V relay on output for the Torch Fire switch). CONSEQUENTLY, you can’t use just a switch closure on the IN1-4 pins - there isn’t enough current to trigger the isolators.
You choice is either
I currently don’t have access to my MACH3 setup, but you can find the configuration information here:
Hi @TomWS replacing the 3k with 800Ohm is easy, I don’t have any of those SMT resistors lying around but I do have some axial leads I can piggyback.
About an hour ago I figured out that the board needs 12-24V for the inputs to work and they were using only 5v for the relay as you said. So I was going to add a 36V to 12V buck, power the board with 12V, then a 12V relay for the torch. The way you propose to bypass the 3k resistor is easier by far. Negative voltage supplies are not so easy BTW.
Looks like X is 2 levels lower current than Y and thanks for confirming. I’m assuming port 3 pin 1 is In1 and so on.
Thanks again!
I wouldn’t bother replacing. Just piggy back, axial leads are fine.
Oh no, that would be logical. IIRC it’s reversed. IN4 might be port 3 pin one. I’m going in shortly so I can check on my laptop. I’ll let you know…
Hi @TomWS, don’t worry about it, you’ve already helped me.
In1 is Port 3 pin 1, In 2 is Port 3 Pin2 and so on.
Surgery was very easy, and works as expected.
I have shielded cables I’ll be using with some lighted 3D printer switches that should work nicely.
Look up tooljunkie on YT… he has videos on how he added limit switches to the crossfire with mach3.
@nicaDd Yes, he used a new controller and wired it with 24V logic. Seeing his machine makes me jealous.
its actually the same controller. the only difference are the connectors. I actually bought that same one and set mine up for limit switches only, when i had the OG 2x2. then the Pro came out and sold the 2x2 with the limit switch set up. i did have to add another power supply and stepdown.
I have the original controller and set up (with parallel resistors) individual home switches for X, Y, Z, and Z Probe (AKA IHS sensing). Nominally no additional power supply required but I didn’t like burdening the USB 5V to drive the steppers, relays, and limit switches. I also didn’t like having the USB power distributed out to the dirty Limit Switch area. That’s asking for trouble IMO.
Consequently, I added a new, isolated 5V to power the IN1-4, OUT1-4 signals. I could have replaced the torch relay with a 24V model but I like having the fast reed relay for Torch Control so kept it at 5V.
@TomWS I see. I looked at Tool Junkie’s setup and really like it. Maybe a bit overkill for my needs, but something to strive for.
@nicaDd I see what you mean. He bought the red controller and shows it in the diagrams. But as I look through his videos more, on his build, as you said he replaced the plugs on the Black Langmuir board with Phoenix screw terminal connectors. I was considering going the other way and prefer the convenience of the 4pin plugs.
Does anyone know what the Langmuir connectors are so more plugs and pins can be added?
I have the part number somewhere, but I’ll have to dig for it…
These are the best. Easy replacement and enables you to unplug without having to unscrew.
