Please, read entirely before suggesting a solution! Will provide as much detail as possible.

Crossfire XL with PrimeWeld CUT60 and PTM-60

Whenever I start a paid project, I use a new electrode and tip. I use previously successfully used settings. I also fully jog my machine at the start of the day and do my zero.

16 gauge cold rolled, 0.8mm tip, 100ipm, 55psi, 30 amp, 0.8 second pierce delay. Work clamp always on the work piece being cut. Arbor plates always used to ensure steel remains flat.

Jagged edges occurred immediately when I started cutting. Since it started right away, this would indicate that there is no issue with new consumables nor air as the tank is full. Also would remove the thought of moisture being an issue.

Unscrewed the shield cup, and everything was tight, proceed with cutting.

Jaggedness occurred throughout but was not consistent in any one particular area either.

Red arrows point at the jagged edges, and green to the smooth edges.

Here is how I’m set up in case anyone is questioning the layout.

Did my own trouble shooting which included -

  1. Checking tolerance on my Z axis (does not move a single bit, tight)

  2. Checked couplers on X and Y axis; there was never any binding nor slipping before cutting and after cutting. Tightened two total but still same issues as you read below

  3. Cut 12 test pieces each with one variable changed to narrow down my possible issue (as pointed out by the yellow arrow showing each piece cut).

Keep in mind, this test cut piece is from a previously successful cut meaning the drawing of the sign is not the issue.

  1. New 0.8mm tip, same jagged edge

  2. New electrode, same jagged edge

  3. Move regulator on machine up and down to ensure proper psi, same jagged edge

  4. Flipped swirl ring, slightly worse jagged edge meaning it was right to begin with

  5. Switched to a new 1.1mm tip, slightly less jagged edge but possibly because of a larger kerf it just burns it off?

  6. Drastically increased cut speed with the 0.8mm new tip, jagged edge but slightly elongated

  7. Drastically decreased cut speed with the 0.8mm new tip, jagged edge but same as before

  8. Replaced the cup shield and swirl ring with new parts and back to a 1.1mm tip, so now everything is brand new, produced best results but had that elongated jagged edge now

  9. Beads in my dessicant filter still blue as they were replaced yesterday, and electrode removed earlier had no swirl marks indicating no moisture; remember, the jagged cut started at the beginning of my first cut

So, I was able to get the sign cut with new cup shield and larger tip but still had the tiniest bit of jaggedness on a letter or two.

Proceed to cut some 1/4" some 15 minutes later.

My thoughts confirmed that due to the lack of beveling, everything is straight as it needs to be. Not to mention square due to proper and circular holes.

Out of these 8 brackets, my 7th bracket hole cut slightly jagged (circled in red again) and the 8th larger bracket as well but slightly less of a jagged edge.

Now here’s the kicker; I cut a sign yesterday out of the same steel, with a slightly used tip and electrode, using the same exact settings as above and had successful results as shown below which proves my combination posted already works.

When I’ve had that issue, it was a plugged air hole in the cap. It has nothing to do with settings. It is restricted air flow in the torch or cap.

Try removing the consumables and use the air check to blow out the torch, just in case there is some debris in there messing up the air flow.


Hmm so I did leave the torch running (post flow) as I pulled consumables and did my many test cuts.

I do hope it’s as easy as running air through the torch to get any “debris” out but it’s definitely not in the cup as I replaced that and still exhibited the jagged cuts in the 1/4" today.

Will try this Sunday before I cut more stuff.

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How about the coupler on the Z axis? Up in behind the torch, at the top.


That’s on the list to check this Sunday as well!

As part of my jog dialing I also run my Z and noticed nothing but I’ll see if I can mark it and check for any slipping.

Messing with the Z axis coupler is a sore subject for me considering the screw heads stripped when I first assembled and tightened everything cause oddly Langmuir doesn’t tighten them from the factory.

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Have you lubricated the lead screws recently?

About 2 weeks ago when I cleaned the table.

I also just ran a dry run lasting 4:59 long, with many stops and starts at 100ipm and the marks on my lead screws and couplers are in the same exact position, confirming that there is no slipping.


But really I need to focus on the one thing I noticed; the cutting sounded as if it were fluttering when it created the jagged cuts.

That tells me something is going on within the torch as far as air flowing; I’m hoping it’s as someone said and maybe debris got stuck inside there or something (before the consumable side) and I can blow it out later with everything removed.

Knowing your work from TW, I knew your table would be clean so I didn’t suggest this for fear of insulting you! :grinning:


Ha what can I say, I like to take care of my stuff!

Did the long dry run based on your suggestion, and was really hoping the marks would separate but nope…they are aligned just the same.

But it would make sense that the couplers aren’t the issue if the jagged cutting is associated with a fluttering noise.

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I’m wondering, could it be a software issue IE Firecontrol?

Another member (on the Facebook group) posted that he is running into a new issue - jagged cuts.

Couplers are fine, and he has experience using his table and software (as he is not new to his equipment).

Stated he updated his Firecontrol and that’s when the issues began. Went to the garage and confirmed I too am running the same updated version of 21.1.5

Can we confirm this is a recent update? And if so, is anyone else experiencing issues?

I have not seen this from software…
the software does what it is told to do…

Jagged cuts are from:

  • loose couplers
  • dry / improper lubricated drive screws and nuts
  • dirty rails
  • worn or upside down swirl ring
  • debris or compressor line issues

Yep, if you read above all trouble shooting was done before even posting.

The only new item I added was dry running a program after I marked my lead screws and couplers, and that only confirmed what was already confirmed earlier.

check your torch height control settings in the fire control and reset to defaults if you are unsure. if it is set too high it can saw. the z movement is a percentage of the cut speed so if that’s off speeding it up will make it worse.

also make sure thc is turned off on small details. if it’s on with. details it can cause issues as well.

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21.1.5 has been out for quite some time and there are many issues with it, but none of them are related to jagged cuts. My laptop shows that I installed 21.1.5 in March of 2022, although I still use 20.6.2 to run my table. The air fluttering indicates an issue with the internals of the torch.

The only other thing I can think of, would be the rollers that ride on the Z axis rods being loose. If those are not properly adjusted, there is play in the Z carriage that can allow the torch to wobble. You can easily check for that by trying to wiggle the torch around.


I am almost hating to say because I can tell this is not your first rodeo, but it almost seems as if there are too many “nodes” in certain areas of the artwork. Sorry, just thinking sir. Hope you get it figured out.

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Appreciate the response @Gogo but if you read the above as part of my trouble shooting, I ran 12 test cuts (a simple rectangle) and experienced the same issues. This was to ensure the image file I created was not a factor at play here.

Not to mention, I also successfully cut 8 brackets all of which were perfect with the exception of one circular cut out (same exact pattern/file) and one on the top edge.

Please read above.

@ds690 Was just a guess but the other member I posted about figured out it was a lead screw issue on his end not to mention his table was absolutely filthy.

As for the Z axis, someone had mentioned checking the bearings as well as the coupler and those were done so as part of the process. Thanks for mentioning it though!

@TXMEDIC Appreciate you simply replying, I wouldn’t take it as wrong or condescending! You can just see how frustrating it is. I’ll post some pictures up but I just got done cutting parts I sell often and out of every single item/hole only one circular hole experienced the jagged cut. Again, just got done cutting them about half hour ago.

A win? Sure I’ll take it as it does not affect functionality. Does it bother me? Absolutely considering holes cut before as well as after are so smooth it creates a mirror finish and that’s with absolutely no cleanup done at all.

Here are those parts - 3 sets of bed stiffeners for a total of 6 brackets, consisting of a total of 36 holes, 30 oval shaped slots, and 12 relief cuts.

I must emphasize thatno changes were made prior to these cuts in any way with the exception of my heat setting due to the material thickness

All the parts

You can see the many holes cut

And now many close up pictures

And finally, the one that experienced a jagged cut

The jagged cut did not occur on the first piece, or the last piece, not to mention it did not start as the first cut or last cut.

Also because I have a small table (Crossfire XL), I have to lift up and move my 4’ x 4’ plate as my cutting area is limited. When I noticed the jagged cut, I cut another 2 bed stiffeners in the same area of the table and experienced no jaggedness at all meaning I cannot replicate it on demand.