Cut 60 issue - No Fire

Cut 60 issue. Haven’t used my torch in about 3 days went to fire it up this morning and I got no fire any ideas? Tried it with two different ground clamps, everything seems normal torch will not light… has been working fine with no issues.

Try getting in contact with George

Here’s my $0.02 worth
Will the torch fire by pulling the trigger (pilot arc)? If it does check for broken CNC connection (pins 1 & 2 at CNC connector)

If torch not firing by manually squeezing the trigger, check how the consumables may be mounted (something too loose or too tight?)

That’s all I got for now. But George is the man.
I guess you can also call PrimeWeld 856-537-4368 too.
Hope this helps

One thing that I found to be a pleasant surprise is that a Machine Torch still implements the safety connection which is a separate pair of wires that tells the PC that the Retainer Cap is installed (and presumably everything it retains). I had purchased a used PTM60 and discovered this as I was tracing out the wires and also discovered that my PC required a different set of pins for these two sense signals. If they are not connected when you try to fire the torch, it isn’t going to fire… YMMV

1 Like

I unscrewed my CNC Port connection/firing wire on the back of the Cut 60, inspected it all plugged it back in and it worked… I dunno?

Repaired by intimidation, gotta love when that happens! Lol!

I had this issue and it turned out to be my imperfect soldering job to one of the torch fire pins. It was held in place by shrink wrap, but could still intermittently break contact.

Starting to think that this might be my problem as well. Then fine for a year I don’t know why all of a sudden that that was the last thing I messed with yesterday before it started working again. That cheesy plastic plug needs to be redesigned and they should supply one with it with as many of these are they’ve been selling.

It sure would be nice not to have solder those crowded and tiny pins.

Agree, took me about 3 tries to get it to hold…
P. I.T.A.

Soldering: Practice, practice, practice, it’s a skill worth learning. I’ve been soldering everyday for as long as I can remember.

  1. Parts to be soldered needs to be clean.
  2. Soldering iron, nice n hot (on my bench Irons, the setpoint is 432*C) Iron tip needs to be clean (wipe on damp cloth or sponge while at temperature) PLEASE DO NOT FILE OR SAND THAT TIP!
  3. Mate parts to be soldered (secure in place so as not to shift)
  4. Apply iron tip to the joint, and allow joint to heat properly
  5. Apply solder to the interface of joint and iron tip (it should wick right in)
  6. Allow just enough solder to flow into the joint
  7. Remove soldering tip and solder without disturbing the soldered joint until cool.
  8. The final soldered joint should look nice and shiny, not dull and crusty.

Additional tips (no pun) :
A little flux helps, but I’m assuming 60/40 rosin core flux was being used.
You want a nice hot iron as you want to get in there do the job as quickly as possible and get out, to avoid damaging the connector or any plastics involved.
Practice on some similar scrap item.
A solder sucker or solder wick is your friend in case you screw-up LOL!
Lots of good YouTube stuff out there on technique.

1 Like

I have the same problem was bad grounds a few times it didn’t fire I didn’t know what was wrong here ? was I didn’t ground it one time the cable was loose on the machine I must have knocked it or something couldn’t figure out what was wrong took me an hour it was loose on the machine I have it in all the way or something it was my fault as usual