Just got my pro together works good so far but the water pan leaks bad. Have 5 gal buckets under table to catch the water. Installed as instruction said used the silicone on all the 2 halfs and in each of the corners even put silicone over the screws holding it in let it dry a week. Any suggestions other than throw it away and build my own.
Iâve ordered a tube of this âProFlex RVâ silicone from Amazon for my table. I put it on and looks like it sealed really good but havenât put water in it yet because I am still putting my table together. There are others that have used it and said it works great. Also others have taken theirs to a local welder and had it tig welded or done it themselves.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FC98X2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_k1AcFbBMC85RN
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I bought a tube of Lexel (clear stuff) silicone at local hardware store. Applied liberally and let dry overnight. No issues so far. Thereâs lots of other sealant options - but Iâd definitely use something in addition to or in place of the tube you get with table. (or tig it as @stinker337 suggests)âŚ
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Yep, Proflex RV is great. I had some tiny drops after assembly, and I think when the torch went over the seam. I just added more proflex on top and under and put a piece of angle bar over the seam on top. Totally sealed and no issues.
Someone said the benefit of the proflex is that it can be added on top of itself easier than other sealants I think.
I used the silicone that was provided, let it dry for a few days then Sprayed on a coat of flex seal over the seam/screws, let it dry a day or 2 and did that about 2-3 more times. No leaks whatsoever.
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I used the included silicone, laid down the pattern as directed, alternated the bolts, and alternated tightening so it would pull evenly. Been running the table heavily, drained and cleaned a couple of times and it remains dry as a bone. If youâre leaking then you should drain it, separate it, clean the mating surfaces very well and try again with one of the above recommended sealers and try again.
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Thatâs key. Nothing is going to stick to the silicone thatâs already on there so youâll need to thoroughly remove it before applying something else. I have a tube of marine sealant if I need it (but havenât yet).
I have found that common silicone sealant sets up too fast and, if itâs a long run, will not provide good adhesion if the joint isnât pressed together âimmediatelyâ. Donât like the stuff for this application as a resultâŚ
Check into setup times on various sealants and pick one that you can practically use while winging 2 four foot long sheets of stainless steel together.
I took mine to a machine shop and they welded it together, welded 3/4" SS couplings to the drain holes and welded SS bolts to where the screws go so it completely water tight for $100. I was surprised at how much water had leaked into the front tube.
3M 5200 is really good stuff. It holds up in harsh marine environments. It also gives a permanent bond.
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have you tried this on Stainless? I like the extended working time and moisture curing, but it doesnât say anything about sealing metal to metal.
My top-shelf, go to sealant is 3M 5200 fast-cure. Donât expect to take it apart easily afterwards though, thatâs Marine stuff. We used it to secure and seal through-hull fittings for Sonar transducers and the like.
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It does work on stainless and aluminum. It is whats used to seal aluminum and stainless to boat hulls. Keep in mind it is âpermanenteâ and not like silicone that can be easily cut apart with a knife. If you need to separate the pans in the future, you will need to use a braided fishing line like a saw blade to eventually cut through it.
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Would JB Weld work to weld/seal the pans together before initial assembly?
I think it is best to only do the pan assembly in the sequence they suggestâŚone the table is togetherâŚyou can bolt with JBâŚbut I m not sure how well that will work.
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