They are shipping out a new pump, I’ll post pics when it comes in.
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One other note on this, when talking to the warranty manager last week he suggested using block heaters. As ridiculous as that is I understand the science of it because my shop is not temperature controlled and it’s been in the 50’s the past week or so, colder at night. I bought a pair of 250W stick on silicone block heaters and put them on the bottom of the crankcase Sunday and they seem to add about 20-25 degrees to the oil temp and drop the pressure from 170psi to about 75psi. Now this obviously wouldn’t be a long term solution but it does absolutely narrow the pressure issue down to the oil itself. This leaves me with a few questions, when the new pump comes and I install it should I keep using this 30wt oil knowing I’m heading to winter and the shop is heading to single digits or should I switch to 10wt? Or just run the 70hr break-in cycle and then run the heaters for the winter on the factory 30wt? 10wt is the only way I see getting through the winter with reasonable oil pressures and no blown seals although the block heater idea does work with enough wattage (apparently more than 500 on this massive cast iron block)
In other news, my Langmuir Crossfire Pro continues to just plain work.
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These new compressor have break in oil install to begin with, they are suppose to be run for 100 hours before switching to standard lubricates. so your 3rd option is the correct one.
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That’s who I would ask about what oil to run, makes sense to me to run something lighter then 30wt but who know what they think.
I don’t think many compressors would do well in those conditions.
I don’t think most equipment including you, would do well in single digits!
I keep my shop at 50 when I am not there and around 60 when I am depending on what I am doing
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Warranty manager says keep it with the 30wt which is what I will probably do so as not to void the warranty. As for the cold it’s not awesome but my last compressor not only never had a problem in the cold, in 17 years I never once changed the oil. That compressor was a savage I just wish it made more air. I am going to switch to the magnetic block heaters though, I’m using the silicone adhesive mat heaters and they smell and I’m pretty sure they will damage the paint when they come off.
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New compressor arrived, I’ll probably install it this weekend if not sooner depending on the weather. It’s been pretty cold in my area this week.
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I hope you have adequate amperage in your shop to run it. I read the specs and it’s listed as single phase 220 which I find interesting. Most compressors over 7 horsepower are usually 3 phase 220.
The receiver isn’t all that big either. Receiver volume predicates the cycle time of any compressor except a screw compressor. Myself, I run a Quincy QP pressure lubed vertical twin, 2 stage with a 7 horsepower open frame Marathon motor and have for years. So long as you change the oil and spin on filter according to the owners manual maintenance guide, they run forever and Quincy is the paramount of all compressors. I also have a Sullaire screw compressor for times when the Quincy cannot keep up with air demand. Screw compressors are continuous run and very quiet as well but the up front cost is pretty high and most all screw compressors come packaged with a refrigerated dryer as well. To keep the cycle ties low on the Quincy, I also have a pair of 150 gallon remote receivers in the corner of the shop and all my air piping is in black iron pipe with the main runs 1.5" in diameter and the drops in 1" terminating in WOG valves to make sure I can expel any condensation. Next to the Quincy is a stand alone IR refrigerated air dryer as well. All my compressed air goes through the refrigerated dryer before entering the air system and I also have a Tsunami condensate removal valve on the bottom of the Quincy that operates every time the compressor cycles. Condensation in any air supply will not only adversely impact plasma cutters, it will destroy air operated tools and we use a lot of air tools here.
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Thats the key “for years”, newer stuff is not built like it used to be. I have a 7.5 hp single phase have not had any problems yet but its only 7-8 years old and does not have a lot of hours on it.
Nothing last like it used too.
My old shop has a 7.5 Hp 480V open motor Quincy compressor, and its at least 60 years old. and I bet you could count on two hands the # of oil changes it has had. It did have the head gone through about 30 years ago
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It’s my understanding 10HP is as big as you can get a single phase motor. My line is actually running 244 so it should take a few less amps but it’s still a serious draw. It’s on a dedicated 60A circuit off a 200A main so it’s not sharing power with anything else in the shop. The compressor itself is actually an Eaton pump, we’ll see what kind of life it gets. I installed an hour meter on the compressor so I can keep the preventative maintenance on schedule. This particular compressor has a continuous run function, you flip a valve and the motor and pump will not shut off but instead disables the pumping of air. It works great and keeps you from having those huge amp draws from motor startup. I wound up returning the pump they just sent, I took a good look at it this weekend and it had the same shit paint and oil that was almost as dirty and an airline that must have been crushed in transit. At this point I think I’m just going to keep the pump that’s on there and ride it out. I will keep a close eye on the oil after I change out the break in oil and filter. So far so good, the two block heaters seem to be doing the trick keeping the oil pressure where it belongs. I ran the blast cabinet for a few hours straight last week and the pressure settled in right at about 35PSI and stayed there. I do need to get a refrigerated air dryer and a muffler though, otherwise I think we’re up and running. I have an M60 filter on the line for the plasma table which seems to be doing okay in the meanwhile.
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Very true, my crappy little Sanborn 3.7HP 60 gallon shop compressor ran for about 16 years without an oil change. Only maintenance I ever had to do was a head gasket a couple months ago. Took 20 minutes and the compressor ran quieter and smoother than it has in years on the same shitty oil…
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Quality compressors like Quincy’s are totally rebuildable and about the only item that needs addressed is carbon buildup on the reed valves in the head and you can remove the carbon yourself and of course buy a new head gasket and button it up. I use Rarus reciprocating compressor oil in my Quincy QP and change the oil and filter yearly. Mine os pretty old and run pretty hard and to date it has no oil blowby or piston slap at all. I suspect it will outlast me. I also have an auto drain on the tank as well. Most compressors fail from the tank rusting out at the bottom. Starts as a pin hole and progresses from there.
I do have the auto drain but I need to pipe it outside. Thing is too damn loud.
Have you tried the air silencer? They are cheap but cut the noise down considerable. I suppose you could attach a “tee” and put two of them to reduce it further. If you have a lot of water coming out, they won’t survive. I have had no problem and have had the same one for more than 18 months.
https://a.co/d/078joLa
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Mine goes into a 5 gal bucket that makes it a little better
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One thing I did was I canned the stock dry element on my Quincy and replaced it with a K&N automotive type oiled filter. I clean and reoil the filter every oil and oil filter change. Far as compressor noise goes, we always have machine tools and air grinders and such running so I don’t even hear it. My receiver condensate goes directly outside and keeps the weeds killed next to the shop
He has a pretty substantial silencer on this machine. I am guessing the normal operating noises are pretty low… it’s the auto drain valve he is wanting to silence. If it goes off when you are not expecting it… it is sort of like stepping on a pheasant when you are out changing sprinkler pipes in deep alfalfa… it can make your heart skip a beat or two.
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I don’t even hear my Tsunami actually and the drain tubing goes outside. Mine evacuates only when the compressor shuts off and the sense line to the unloader dumps. Pretty nifty drain setup and not all that expensive either. It does entail some plumbing however. I used Ni-Cop brake line piping and Teed into the unloader on the compressor head.
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I think that is what he said he planned to do to silence it. 
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You are correct sir
Been busy and not replying but I owned and sold a portable gas engine compressor an IMC with a twin cylinder Onan electric start and a continuous run Eaton vertical twin. I use it to assemble my big Clearspan truss arch building I store my tractors and hay tools in plus our RV in and a few cats (to keep the mice under control as well). Ran quite well and I left the unloader set at 175 pounds as well. Wife and I finished the Clearspan and then I sold the unit on FB Marketplace for what I paid for it. Eaton compressors seem, to be high quality units, least as good as a Quincy from my hands on experience and I was tempted to keep it but I already have too much stuff sitting around so I sold it. I bought it at a machinery liquidation auction and has a surprise waiting for me when I got it home and unloaded. There was a wooden cabinet attached to it that I never looked it and lo and behold, there was a complete Ingersoll-Rand concrete breaking hammer inside the cabinet with a complete set of core drills to fit. Needless to say neither the IR nor the attachments stayed with the unit when I sold it.
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