You need to forget this machine and regroup. This will be a thorn in your side from now on. Like was stated by @Tobias the manufacturer doesn’t give two about your problem.
Just my two cents. Buy a Razor, Everlast, or a Primeweld 60 (latest version)machine.
I got the table used and I already had the machine doing hand cuts on plate and it works fine. Spending more money for a hobby setup now isn’t in the cards. If it is a matter of a minor gcode change that will work until the plasma cutter doesn’t and I need to replace it. I am not a production shop, not in a rush, and this is as much a learning experience for me as anything so investing less money up front until it is worth spending more is perfectly fine. In fact I will probably just run it without the change and test my luck. Thanks for the words of wisdom though.
I assume it works for any “CNC Ready” Bestarch cutters. Reach out to me if you need more help with this. I don’t mind. I was able to get it to work successfully with the delay.
Post flow, I think. Because it happens when the torch shuts off. The air keeps going to cool the tip. My Hypertherm 45 Sync does this all automatically and does not prevent the next firing. The Bestarch units seem to prevent the next fire until the min. post folow of 3 seconds is complete. They are adamant that they do it the right way. Personally, I think the unit might melt if they disabled the 3 sec. post flow. . seriously, after comparing to a hyperthem tip, the Bestarch look very fragile.
There is so many things wrong with the bestarc btc800xp its like were do you start, with the wrong torch or the wrong consumables. I watched 4 youtube videos and most of it was BS by people that really don’t know what they are doing anyway.
Well, fwiw I seem to have another issue but I did not have a way to accurately test of the Torch is unable to stop after letting go because of the post flow timer. It seemed like I was able to restart it on the fly but because of other issues it might be a moot point. Has never been a problem doing hand cuts but for some reason there is no voltage It seems there is no voltage coming out of the voltage port so the THC is seeing zero volts. I tested with a voltmeter on the pins in the plug of the machine so it’s not a wiring issue on my healf. As measured it mometarily blips .6 volts but it’s for a millisecond but then back to zero. Even checking millvolts showed nothing while test firing from either the hand torch or from fire control button. On a second matter the Y and X axis from the Langmuire firecontrol seems to doing .25 steps for movement. For example I programmed a manual cut on a dry run for 10 inches on the X and Y. I ran several times and ran each independantly of each other as well. After measuing a couple of times it seems that 10 inches was measuring 2.5 inches or pretty close to it. I ran out of time to mess with it today but when I get back around to it going to put a sharpie in it and measure the drawings. I 3d printed a sharpie holder so shouldn’t be a major issue. Does anyone know if there is some calibration method or if there is some setting on the dip switches on the controller boards. If someone knows more and you care to mention it while I am searching the forums I would be pretty happy. I’m going to take the cover off the plasma cutter later this week and see what I can find as far as the voltage port. I doubt I will find much support on any sites for it, lol. Maybe whoever told me to dispense with it and move on earlier has a valid point… Thanks everyone for the input!
I was able to sort out the THC voltage so now just on to the dimensions. I’ll pop the cover off the box tomorrow when I get home from work and check the dip switches. I changed the dimensions from inches to MM on fire control and it still is coming up short in X and Y. Thanks for the tips
Worth mentioning that I bought the unit used and it was the old GEn 1 with mach 3 controllers. I purchased the THC upgrade kit so is it more likely that some of the switches are not in the right configuration due to that?
Just wanted to say thanks for the info on the dip switch settings. That was the issue. Odd that they would ship it like that but oh well. I have to wonder what all the various positions change in the grand scheme of things. One of these day’s I will have to read up on the controllers more.
Glad I could help. I also did a little five-minute screen recording (no audio) for anyone wanting a visual regarding changing the post file. I included a version similar to what Tobias suggested and one with the “hard coded” 3 second dwell.
Disclaimer: If you decide to edit your post file, you do so at your own risk.