The stage you’re at is only half of it. Now the editing to make it work as a sign lol. You could do layers, and use 3m sticky tape.
Yeah just lines won’t have any lead in or out. I’d start with a outline of the whole buggy with a black fill, then start subtracting features or turning them white to preview what the detail will look like.
If you have a registered version of SheetCam and the version number is at least V7.0.0 you can easily check which parts will fall out. Set up the cuts then run simulation. Now move your mouse over the drawing. The area under the cursor and any connected areas will be highlighted.
A handy trick in Inkscape is to use the bucket fill tool. It’s not as accurate as SheetCam’s simulation but it is good to get a quick idea of how it will look. Your outline must be closed for this to work though.
That’s what you’re going to have to do - break paths all over this. Right now you’re mostly going to end up with an outline of the buggy in the plate and bits and pieces of a buggy. You want cutlines that suggest the part. So like the wheels for instance. Right now everything is going to cut out and be scrap. You’d want to break the line in a couple of places on the body for the tire (keep the arc below the car body so it will come free of the material).
Then both the wheel outline and the hub need to be broken as well. Right now those will not cut free and you’ll have a couple of metal circles in your water pan. The only ones you wouldn’t break are the 4 cutouts surrounding the hub. Those would get cut and fall out as they should.
dunebuggy trace.dxf (654.1 KB)
I “think” I’m finished 
It could use a critique from an experienced set of eyes.
Thanks guys for all you help while I learn new things.
OK…it looks like a great picture…
see that you are trying to just cut lines for a highlighted effect…
you are going to most likely increase some of the spaces between the lines…they seem too close and might create a propblem at the start or end of a cut.
by making them look like they are joined…they might end up being joined
How big of a gap would you recommend? I mostly used .25 inch give or take. I just drew a .25 inch circle and dropped it over the junctions and removed everything in the circle and then the circle.
I don’t have my table yet, so I’m not sure how much space to give it.
hoe big is this going to be?
keep in mind that when you cut lines…and you are not dialed in perfectly you end up with little round circles at the start of each cut…it is the pierce hole…so you could end up with little holes at every line
One way around that is to skip the pierce delay on no-offset cuts. It will pierce and cut as it moves. You’ll have a bit of the start of the line uncut but for art pieces that’s not usually critical. Or tighten it up someore by giving it 1/2 the pierce delay as normal and it won’t go so far before piercing and cutting.
Are there other types of circles?
Mahabahahabahah
Thanks for the tip!!! I’m planning on scaling it up to a 22 inch circle at least. I have a lot of semi trailer side panels from a custom build and they are going to be practice panels while I get up and running. I am more worried about the piece being too fragile, and hadn’t thought about the pierce hole.
Is this even possible now with the new warnings in firecontrol?