You are going to need some more equipment besides just your refrigerated air dryer.
Your refrigerated air dryer has a maximum input temperature.
It also has an input temperature that all of its ratings are based on.
So it’s very likely you’ll need some after cooling between me compressor and your refrigerated air dryer to reduce the temperature of the compressed air to before entering the air dryer.
Also after your refrigerated air dryer you’ll want a desiccant cell of some type to reduce the dew point further.
Having a particulate and oil filter before your refrigerator air dryer is a good idea as well.
Seems like a really good unit.
If the air temperature entering this unit is over 38° c it will start to reduce your capacity.
This is the standard you should be aiming for.
ISO 8573-1
Class 1.2.2
You can see by the air quality standards chart listed below and referencing your spec sheet on the refrigerated air dryer that the air dryer is only capable of reaching a class 6 pressure dew point by itself, that’s why a desiccant cell is needed.
Thank you for a quick and informative answer to my posting.
Do you think if I built a cooling manifold using 1/2 or 3/4 copper piping 3 to 5 feet long looping pipes on my shop wall, would cool the compressed air, before going into the dryer? I’ll use my laser thermometer to check the temperature.
Do you have a recomendation for the desiccant cell you mentioned?
yes a passive radiator will drop the temperature of the compressed air.
There is a balancing act to be aware of:
too small or/and too long will increase your resistance which will increase the overall pressure drop .
too big you will have laminar flow in the middle of the pipe so part on the mass of the air wont be subject to cooling as affectively.
you could but that will only give you surface temperature on the pipe not the air flow temperature. yes they correlate somewhat but this is not truly accurate and surface temperature lag behind the air flow temperature. an in air stream sensor would be ideal.
large. something that can handle 11scfm +/- would match up to your refrigerate air dryer nicely.
I did some research and found the “Derale 15300 Tube and Fin Cooler” has been used on the Dewalt to brin g the air temperature down fro 300 degrees to 85.
Should I put the DeVilbiss 130525 QC3 Air Filter and Dryer
I use a desiccant then a motor guard 60 filter just before plasma machine. I would buy a desiccant canister that holds the beads instead of the filter, then into the motorguard 60 filter. just my opinion?
A note about this cooler is it’s not a passive cooler you need to move air through it actively for it to work correctly.
Some people use the fan on the compressor that cools the head (s)
But you have to be careful that you don’t end up in a robbing Peter to pay Paul situation. By either blowing the air off this hot coil and it running into the heads or blowing the hot air off the heads into this coil.
Sorry if this has been touched on before but wondering if I should run off my compressor through my air dryer before the air goes into the compressor tank or is that overthinking it? I live in a very humid area so I would like to keep as much moisture out of my brand new compressor if possible. Not sure this is even an option but in theory seems like it would work.
I wouldn’t it will be unnecessary pressure on your pump. Any way you try you won’t remove all the moisture so a teaspoon or a gallon your tank will be wet. Air drying equipment is better served post tank…
Oh there is several threads it is a rabbit hole for sure. One thread I posted some results of a compressor run both ways.
Well I could start a new thread but this one may have some life to it. I was checking out some of the Refrigerated Air Dryers. Quincy Refrigerated Air Dryer (13 CFM).
Some specs - On the Quincy Refrigerated Air Dryer
• Handles 13 CFM at 100 PSI; 232 PSI maximum
• Uses 115V-1 phase power; 0.5" NPT-M connector in & out
• Max Inlet Temp. Rating 131 F
• Inlet Fittings 1/2"
• Outlet Fittings 1/2"
The Temp. Rating of 131 F was what I am looking at. Would I still need the copper pipe cooler? The compressors don’t tell you what the temperature of the air coming out of them is (the tank). I would like a quieter one if possible. Maybe this one - EMAX $2899.00 60,000-hours Silent Air 175 PSI Electric Air Compressor with Isolator Pads and Auto Drain • 17 CFM at 100 PSI.
If I ran the copper pipe cooler I think it would be easier to run the pipe horizontal maybe 10 to 20 feet then u-turn back the same. Something simple.
I did find a hose -
Upgraded Compressor Jumper Hose, High-Temperature 320°F, 3/4" x 40"Length, 3/4" NPT Male Connector, Both Sides Fittings Rotate Freely, 700 PSI, on Amazon.
This would be effected by, ambient air temp and compressor usage/run time and what set pressures you have it set at.
I have one of these compressors sold under the polar air name, but I don’t have the silent air option.
That option when I saw it maybe 14 years ago was nothing more then a large insulated sheet metal box that the inlet of the pump pulled from. I was going to build my own, but never got around to it.
I am very happy with my compressor.
A aftercooler before the refrigerated dryer is a good idea if you are goin to do long runs if just cutting a sign or two you may not need one. a aftercooler being a copper pipe or radiator type both work good.
doing a copper pipe be sure you have several low places with drains for water to collect and be removed.
That’s a rather severe case unless the equipment is stored in unconditioned space AND the demand is continuous AND it merely affects the amount of cooling, not the actual air flow.
