i just looked the model number up like i was looking for a replacement. the specs. is the pump rpm is 1020 considered a low rpm pump. at max pressure of 175 it can produce 24 cfm of free air.
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I don’t remember timing my cycle with the cooler on. It wasn’t until after it broke that the discussion started.
I’m in Utah so we have some good opposite extremes in temperature. It snowed here two days ago so….
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It snowed about 500 feet above where I live 2 days ago. 31 degrees yesterday morning. Spring is having a hard time.
yeah i was 80 degrees yesterday. we have had a oddly unusually warm winter.
We woke up to a blizzard this morning. Its been a great snow year in Utah this year!
I was getting ready to do some cutting so I fired my compressor up. I did the math the way I know how pump pulley divided by motor pulley. 16 /4 =4. Then motor rpm divided by 4 comes to 862 . Checked my pump rpm it was 860.
Thought you guys may be interested.
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That’s a great idea! And I just junked my old r22 3 ton system when I finished my new one. That old condenser and fan would have been great!
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Whew. I ordered an aftercooler setup today (based on what I learned here) and downstream maxline air line kit and all the associated fittings. I still need to figure out the 8AN fittings and pipe to the cooler and back again.
Does anyone know what size hole and threads is on the head of the single stage quincy 3.5HP 60gal? Which size flex copper pipe to buy? Thanks in advance.
I’m going to have well over $3k into the air compressor system by the time I’m done.
Here is a good link:
Podavelle 8AN Female Flare Swivel to 1/2 NPT Pipe Male Adapter Fitting Union Straight Aluminum Black Amazon.com
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so the hole in the compressor head is in fact ½" NPT? that would be so convenient!
I removed my aftercooler this winter. My air setup is now compressor - 6 foot hose to regulator, into copper manifold with 4 drops, into a splitter then harbor freight refrigerated dryer, into water/oil separator, dessicant (very small) into motorguard then cutter.
So far with the removal of my aftercooler, I have noticed the following;
When my compressor drains, there’s actually a bit of water now.
I have shorter recharge times.
Desiccant consumption seems unaffected.
I’m beginning to think all the aftercooler did was keep water out of my tank and extend my run times for refilling.
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LOL. It kept water out of the tank? Isn’t that the point? I guess some vapor could still escape.
I don’t have enough wall space for a copper run. My only other choice is refrigeration, which isn’t really because I don’t have enough juice in the garage for so many tools running simultaneously.
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Yeah, kept it out of the tank but at the expense of restricted airflow from the pump to the tank, resulting in higher stress on the motor and slower refill times.
I used to think it was worth it to keep water out of the tank, but after pondering @TinWhisperer’s input, I’ve come to the conclusion it was not affecting the overall air quality, just keeping water out of the tank basically. The tank will be just fine draining once a day.
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I had the same experience. My compressor motor was laboring/running slower. I moved my cooler to post tank + particulate/oil separator. So I have tank, regulator, oil/particle separator, AT cooler w/temp probe activated fan, 5 leg copper w/drip gates, HF refrigerated cooler, another particle separator, then desiccant bead holder.
Some on here have said desiccant bead holder should be before last particle filter, but unit I bought was setup with this config. Also, my bead holder is too small from what others have recommended. I should probably also put that first separator before the regulator.
So far, no concern with pressure drop over that long, tortuous route. Just entering humid season, so true impact of all this effort will soon be known.
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My misunderstanding. I thought you were going for the cooler after the tank. Those fittings in that particular listing has a number of options:
That was my problem and this was my solution:
Yes, I guess there is concern of dust and particles that come off the beads causing wear on the consumables.
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Need the motorguard filter as the last filter.
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I only have a small two car garage shop space for now. I love all the scaled up ideas for cooling and drying but I’m going to try the aftercooler first and see what results I can get. If that doesn’t work I’ll try the HF refrigerated air cooler. After that, I’m out of space unless I start rigging something into the Crossfire table.
Currently, my plan is the aftercooler before the tank, already installed auto drain set for 15m intervals, 0.5s, [water trap](https://THB 1/2" Heavy Duty Particulate Filter Moisture Trap Water separator w/Auto Automatic Drain), M60 filter. My compressor shuts off at 122psi. I’m going with three mini regulators at the 3 drop points in the garage so I can adjust for each machine/use. The CNC router doesn’t need 75psi.
Also, one last edit. I was thinking about the various designs posted here and on YT. Perhaps there is a mechanical advantage to the copper lines forcing the air to travel against gravity, leaving most of the moisture behind? As with all science and experiments, some designs may have greater effect than others for the intended purpose.
I tried the after cooler after the compressor and before the tank. Not trying to tell you what to do but I wouldn’t waste the time. It will be better served post tank with a fan to cool it.
I dug deep into this when mine was hooked up absolutely nothing was gained. My tanks gets more water and the after cooler post tank catches a noticable more. It isn’t worth the time changing the plumbing. With a aftercooler pre tank still won’t catch all the moisture so there is no point in increasing the cycle time on your compressor.
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that makes sense. It would be far easier to just buy two of the 8AN - 1/2" NPT adapters ChelanJim mentioned and just mount it to the wall behind my compressor. Suppose I could try that.
Another benefit of having the aftercooler post tank is that it won’t be subjected to the pulsing forces and heat from the compressor head. I think @brownfox has been through two or three aftercoolers due to pipe failure. Pure speculation on my part but I think part of the problem is the cooler being subjected to pulsing forces that it wasn’t designed for. Post tank you get more of a constant/static pressure.
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