I agree those are acceptable cuts, as far as water separation goes, I run an after cooler made out of two B&M trans coolers with pusher fans running through them, that then runs into 50 feet of 1 inch copper with three down turns that have a drain. I have never seen a drop of water in the filter reservoir on the back of the XP 45 if that is any indication of clean air. I did a search for consumables premature failure due to water, and a lot of the cases on this forum are pretty extreme, almost like the nozzle went into the bed of water.
I would check the way your torch is mounted. It should be able to continue going down past the plate, in order for the IHS system to work properly.
Try cutting one with my .tap file and if you don’t get similar results, something is wrong with the torch mounting or the consumables.
I was getting excessive taper when I first got the Hypertherm torch and I suspect the consumables were Plasmadyn copies of the Hypertherm parts(I got the Torch from Plasmadyn). I swapped all of the replaceable parts with genuine Hypertherm parts and my cut quality has been great ever since.
You should consider adding a quart sized desiccant dryer and a motorguard filter to your air supply.
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Do you typically keep your smart voltage at zero?
Thank you for your help and your advice. I will definitely run those files soon.
I second a bead cell dryer it will remove the suspended moisture that is left. You will be surprised at how quick they will turn colors.
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I always keep smart voltage on. I’ve tested nominal voltage a few times, but smart voltage seems to work fine for me.
Ok I can do that.
Try it with THC turned off. I’ve had problems with it on thicker steel.
I’m not sure why you’re responding to me, but I’ve never had any problems with my THC.
Sorry, clicked the wrong arrow thingy.
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I read some of these comments but don’t see mention of air!
I’m guessing you air pressure is around 50psi but more important would be your delta.
Your drop should not fluctuate more than say 4lbs if it dose then a quality flow control could just be your issue. ( not just the pressure unit that comes with it) Oh! And also your cut speed.
Take my info with a grain of salt.
Thank you for that over cut file that is a really cool feature! My cut is definitely not as clean as yours but I think I am headed in the right direction. In the last pic I circled the angle of that cut. It’s the same on both sides of the ears but relatively straight on the other side. Whatever is causing that, I think is the culprit of my problems.
Try rotating your torch in the mount and see if the taper follows the rotation. If so, your nozzle might have a small imperfection in the hole or the hafnium in the electrode isn’t centered.
The cut does look a little rougher than mine. That might be caused by some moisture in your air supply. The moisture we are talking about will not come out of suspension into a water separator at room temperature. It needs to be removed by refrigerating the air or using a desiccant.
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Ok, I rotated the touch and ran a program, there is something up with the shield I guess as its only thing I have not be replacing through out this testing. Ok I will get a desiccant filter asap! thanks for all your help and walking me through this, I have used a lot of four letter word in this past week!
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I had an issue with cut quality and one of my tools had a typo in the plunge rate for the Z axis. Really messed things up. Just one more thing to double check, probably not your issue but it is now on my check list with all the other things mentioned here.
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