Straight cut feature

1

How do I begin and end a straight cut to get a complete cut, how does torch height get set if I start slightly off edge of part

2

I measure carefully and add 3/32 (actually .1”) to my cut length when I set the straight cut program. I very carefully eyeball the torch position so that less than half the nozzle is on the plate. The torch will touch off for IHS, but still start right off the edge and complete my cut with a kerf width or two of follow through.

1 Like
3

I’d like to see an offset feature so you could zero the torch where you want to start, click go and have the torch move to x + offset value (like 3/32 or 0.25) for touch off and to get height and then moves back to zero x - offset to starting position and fires torch. I’ve had some trouble getting the torch lined up on the end of the material as well - it’s doable, but it can be tricky. I’d use the straight cut feature more if it did this.

2 Likes
4

I love it. I get 4x8 sheets of 1/8" and 14 gauge and rip them in half so I can handle them by myself. I eyeball the start point by lowering the THC the let her rip.

5

Y’all should learn how to write G-Code. Then you’ll be able to do whatever your little heart desires…

2 Likes
6

Sure…it’s simple enough to do in g-code, but going that route sorta defeats the purpose. I think the feature is great - and glad it’s in firecontrol - so no issues there. Just making a suggestion.

7

My point is that you write the G-Code once and then load it when needed. It will behave the way you prefer every time without dependency on Langmuir.

8

TomWS can you flesh that out for us beginners? My process probably seems amateurish because it is amateurish, but it takes less than a minute to measure, type in my parameters and generate the program. What steps or time would writing my own gcode save me? Or is there some improvement in results?

9

I have a G-Code ‘program’ that cuts a straight cut in any direction for any arbitrary length. The cut ALWAYS cuts to 0,0 position so…

  1. You jog the gantry to where you want the END of the cut to be and set both X&Y axis to zero.
  2. You verify that the variable #100 is set to the correct cut speed. You may have to edit the file for this any time you change material.
  3. You jog the gantry to where you want the Cut to START (including any leading).
  4. Press Cycle Start. In my case I have code to calibrate the Z axis and sets the plunge speed to yield the correct pierce delay. You will need to change this code to match what a CrossFire Pro needs to start a cut.

The cut will move to the current 0,0 position and stop. You can include any lead out in your initial setting.

StraightCutTHCa.zip (644 Bytes)

Once I have the G-Code file loaded and the cut speed set I can move around the table and cut out any odds and ends by just jogging, set zero, jog to start, and cut. Then off to the next position.

10

Neat. I usually just bump & burn.

Move to the edge, hit the torch on and then use the big keys to run it straight across.

Yours is more elegant :slightly_smiling_face:

11

LOL! In my case, it’s more reliable than me trying your method! :flushed:

12

Ok - I like that! The idea of actually saving a gcode file and loading/editing it when needed for some reason did not click in my brain today…which is basically what the straight cut does…can code up some variables for my offset, etc…duh…good info and nice way to handle it - thanks!

13

You don’t need it - FireControl has that feature right on the screen. Put the head somewhere & tell it how many inches to cut and press go :slightly_smiling_face: Way quicker but still as reliable as Tom’s method. He’s just stuck with Mach3.

14

Yeah, but I want to do an offset so I can touch off and then move to zero and start cut, so Tom’s method is not bad - will work for me. It would be nice to be able to enter an offset in Firecontrol for the touch-off, though.

15

And, I should add, it IS Tom’s method and therefore vastly superior to…
Oh wait… I must have been daydreaming…
Sorry.

1 Like