Like to know if there is any benefit getting the razor weld over the primeweld cut60. Any info on both cutters is greatly appreciated. thanks in advance. I’m totally new to this. I’m going to order the crossfire pro just cant make up my mind on which cutter to get.
I’m a Prime Weld disciple, they work well, great support, ample power and features and great price point. I’ve got their CUT60 and TIG225… I’m happy!
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I also have the Cut60 and Tig225. For the money they work great.
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Thanks I ordered the pro and the prime weld. primeweld supposed to be here tomorrow and pro sometime in April. I’m so excited and nervous because I have no clue what I’m getting into.
Good luck with it all. There is a lot of learning in the process. The cut chart for steel (all I’ve done so far) for the Cut60 is quite accurate for outside cuts. Smaller inside cuts do require reducing cut speed.
The plasma ships with a 60A/1.1mm tip, you can get high quality Italian made consumables for it from George here on the forum or through his ebay store. I bought generic 50A/1.0mm tips on Amazon that for my needs are working quite well and are less than $3 per change out. Getting a few hundred pierces in 1/4" steel before changing tip/electrode. When those run out I may try the Italian ones.
You need clean air and decent volume of air. That was one struggle I had for quite a while before getting a larger compressor and adding a large desiccant dryer.
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Lots of good folk on here to assist!
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I mentioned this before - If you buy direct from Primeweld and sign up for their mailing list you get $25 off with free shipping. They did not charge me sales tax in NY and I got my Cut 60 overnight. They shipped from NJ.
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I didn’t know that I could get 25 off and yes ordered from primeweld. As to air I have 80 gallon 2 stage 5 hp emax compressor. it runs 19 cfm at 90 psi I believe I boughtit years ago. I need a air dyer what do you guys recommend. Thanks for all your responses. I’m pleasantly surprised so far with the response an willingness to help. It actually calms my nerves about my decision. I see know that if I need help or have a question that this is a great community.
Here’s my air drying setup, many methods of doing it, this is just the route I took.
Out of the compressor a line goes to a Campbell Hausfeld double trap, bulb for oil and water and a desiccant bulb:
Then with a short cast iron nipple and fittings the air is sent to a Devilbiss QC3 desiccant dryer with gauge:
I can set my output with that final gauge for HVLP spray guns, air tools etc. The Cut60 has a pressure adjustment gauge on the unit for accurate final air flow.
Reason for the double desiccants is that reloading the CH bulb is cheap, I bought 5lb of desiccant for $30 that will give me close to 2 years of refills. The Devilbiss refills are more expensive. I get crazy dry air. I spray solvent paints frequently, marine paint, ZRC galvanizing paint, Rustoleum cans etc.
I like the CH desiccant bulb because I can see when the blue desiccant has turned light pink and change out for fresh blue desiccant. Very quick and easy. That desiccant can also be re-dried in an oven and used again, so I keep the used stuff and will dry a whole batch someday when the 5lb container is used up. I hope the Devilbiss desiccant pack which is $50-75 will last a few years. I’ll post a photo if I can figure out how to on an ipad.
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Do a forum search and a google search for home built air dryers…
Some people use desicants some use refrigerated dryers sone use copper fixed to the wall…each has pros and cons.
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My prime weld came today. it seems to be a well built machine. Cant wait until April. I need to download the programs an practice before April. The programs are going to be my biggest challenge. I have never even downloaded something before.
The good news is that neither has anyone else on this forum before they did it for the first time…
Must be doable, I’d say…
And, if, while you’re practicing, you get a lot of garbage files, send them to @toolboy, he’ll put them to good use 
Of course, one permanent problem you will have is now you will forever be a Newbie!
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this hurts…after all the things I never did for you…I treated you like…someone I have never met…and you throw me to the wolves…I am so proud…
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Oh stop. You know how much you love turning $h!t into good stuff. I’m just giving you material to work with… 
Get a motor guard too
I have both. I use the primeweld 60 at home on my crossfire pro and i use the razorweld at work on a standard crossfire. Both have their good and bad points. I had a lot of (frequency) noise from my primeweld. I got my table in batch 1. I could not get the crossfire pro to work with the cnc port on mine and had to connect to live voltage. The primeweld 60 cuts good but I believe they have overstated what this machine is capable off. Mine struggles with 1/2" I haven’t tried 3/4" but I don’t believe it would cut clean thru. Maybe a severence cut at best. The Razorweld works great! It does everything they say it will and more. But it is only a 45 amp machine. If they made a 60 amp machine, priced like the Primeweld, I would definitely buy the Razorweld over the Primeweld. However consumables for the Razorweld seem to be more expensive than the Primeweld. The Razorweld comes with a much nicer torch than the Primeweld. The torches on both machines will interchange with each other BTW. The Primeweld comes with a cnc port and air pressure adjustability. The Razorweld does not. Good luck with yours. If you have problems with it working with the tables electronics and software, They have put out a few troubleshooting guides that seem to cover every problem people have had. There is a long thread from last March I started when I was having problems*The guys at Langmuir are great to work with!!!
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Hello Cletus I see you’re a primeweld user and just wondering if you might have some better info on Kerr width and cut speeds for the Cut60? I have searched a bit on here and found so much different info not sure what to follow. I have the book but I want to get some closer numbers from someone that has used one for awhile.
I haven’t do the test cut and measured my kerf width yet but I will this afternoon
Thanks in advance for any info you don’t mind sharing.
Adding 0.01" to the nozzle diameter will get you close… BUT the only way to zero in on your actual kerf width is to do a test. I do a 2" square with a 1" round hole… I suppose you could do a 1" square with a 1/2" hole. Then set it to cut the center of the line. The difference between what you designed and what you ended up with is your kerf width. Keep in mind your kerf width will change (get wider) as your tip ages.
Also, your kerf width will change with material thickness and amps as well.
Maybe this will help you.
This is what I have found to work with most plasma cutter nozzles/tips that most people have in their shops or garages. NOTE: Orifice hole size 1mm = .03937"
20 amp tip - 0.6mm/.025" - 15 to 20 amps - 50 to 55 psi
30 amp tip - 0.8mm/.030" - 21 to 30 amps - 55 to 60 psi
40 amp tip - 0.9mm/.035" - 31 to 40 amps - 65 to 70 psi
50 amp tip - 1.0mm/.040" - 41 to 50 amps - 65 to 75 psi
60 amp tip - 1.1mm/.044" - 51 to 60 amps - 65 to 75 psi
70 amp tip - 1.2mm/.047" - 61 to 70 amps - 75 to 80 psi
80 amp tip - 1.3mm/.051" - 71 to 80 amps - 75 to 80 psi
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