Got my Razorweld 45. Checked to find the two probes for the switch. There are 4 probes, two long two short. The two short have continuity when the trigger is engaged and the two long ones do also. So which ones Are the correct wires when the harness gets here??
The two that do not have continuity when the trigger is released. On mine that was the top two pins on the torch cable. On the inside of the unit it is the top 2 black wires on the connection.
I ran the connection through the front panel slots so I didn’t cut or drill into the cabinet in case I had to return it for warranty service. It also makes certain the wires won’t get pinched or rub on the case.
To get the case off I removed the 6 screws holding the outer shell on. Removed 2 screws holding the table ends on (1 on each end). Removed 2 screws on the bottom front plastic “foot” under the machine. Removed one screw at the top of the front panel tucked under the top lip. Removed the amperage setting knob.
That allowed me to pull the front away - it was stiff as the handle was a fairly tight fit in the caps on the front & rear panel. Then I removed the top handle. That allowed me to spread the bottom of the metal case and pull it off. That provided access to the internals. Easy to get to the wires for modification.
Reassembly is the reverse. Make sure nothing gets pinched, watch for the big circuit board as it slots into a little boss on the backside of the front panel and make sure everything slides back tight before tightening the screws.
Dumb question…Did the amperage setting knob pop off or screw off?
R2
It pops off - but it’s on really tight so you’ll need to prise it off. You can use a claw hammer to lever it off.
Make sure you turn it all the way down first and note where the arrow hashes on the knob point on the scale so when you press it back on it’ll go on where it was from the factory.
The shaft is a ribbed plastic but the knob has a brass & steel insert that grips the shaft.