Figured I would start a thread of my own for the build.
I don’t know when I will get it done or if I can actually fit it after some shop rearranging. (i think I can)
I am going to scrap all of the original crossfire frame with the exception of the brackets for the upper rail, the electronics enclosure and the Gantry arm itself.
I know Dax1592 did roughly the same thing but he replaced almost all of the lead screw hardware. My knowledge on this subject is novice at best so it will be a learning process for that aspect of the build. I know I will need a 1/2" lead screw for the Y axis so that will be the main challenge for me.
My goal is to not only expand to 2x4 but to make a much much heavier and stable frame.
Hopefully pick up materials this week and chip away at the project here and there as time permits.
Update on the build. Table is fully welded up and by some miracle it didn’t distort any noticeable amount.
I upgraded the top rail to stainless steel which wasn’t particularly cheap for a 6 foot tube. Its only 16 gauge but it doesn’t seem to have any flex from my body weight so I can’t imagine the gantry arm will bother it much.
All welds were made at a minimal heat setting in the vertical down position to limit heat input as much as possible while retaining a decently sound joint.
The top rail measures 67.5" for anyone interested and the water table will measure 50"x29". The walls will be higher than the stock table to allow it to be fully filled with water. The water table will be clamped in place as well rather than screwed down.
When everything is done and hopefully working properly I will release the plans for the entire thing if it interests people. Total cost I am guessing will be around $500.
With your skills I think you would be better off selling crossfire and getting controls from candc and probably have thc. Just a thought. Check out plasma spider lots of useful info on forums. Nice work by the way!
I thought about it but to be honest i have no idea what I’m doing.
The crossfire is my first encounter with CNC and this entire build is a learning process. I don’t have the slightest idea how to handle the electronics and everything on my own.
The main issue with building a real setup like that is i don’t have the space for the table. Putting this thing in my garage is pushing the limits already. If I wanted to build something replicate a fully featured 2x4 table without sacrificing cut size I would be looking at around 50" I think vs the 34" + stepper motor this one is. The Lincoln TorchMate 2x4 is 40" wide and thats a far more compact design than I believe I can build myself.
My crossfire has paid for itself already so realistically I am into this for
-$125 in 2x2 tubing.
-$65 in 2x2 stainless top rail
-$65 for new lead screw
-$25 for new lead screw nut
-Whatever it cost me to machine the lead screw to fit the adapters
-Whatever it cost me to have a water table made. If its over $200 to have one bent out of 11 gauge I will just have to weld it myself.
So realistically I will be into this $500 I think all said and done. Which is priceless for the learning experience in my book knowing it will pay for itself anyway.
a THC alone for a full table build will cost me more than this entire crossfire upgrade. I would also need to get a machine torch which could become very expensive.
If this works out and I decide I am ready to do better, I have all the time in the world to spend designing an even better one with a THC.
So I am assuming after a lot of unsuccessful searching that the bearing side lead screw support is a part langmuir had custom made. Unfortunately I no longer own a lathe and have to either pay someone to turn the part of find an alternative means.
Other users I have seen opted to replace the bearing holder from Langmuir with a pillow block which is an option but it is much bulkier and I would like to keep the nice look of the smaller support.
The stock adapter is 5/8" with a 1/8" wall which I can drill out to accept the 1/2" lead screw however it will leave a very thin wall. To combat this I decided to make a sleeve that I can plug weld over the stock adapter and then tap for set screws hopefully achieving my goal. If all else fails, I will have to have someone turn it for me.
WRT your water table. Framing it with 3-4" angle and welding a plate across the center with a decent lap weld will make for a solid and water tight table. That would likely cost less than bending if you are willing to spend the time welding it.
Since you are making your own slat holders you can design them around the available space in between the welds and true them up accordingly. You can also add a center slat holder that is slightly offset to allow some bowing in the slats which will help them hold up longer. 1-2" angle with slots cut vertically makes a very solid slat holder that is very easy to maintain level with. The crossfire A frame slat holders are overcomplicated and harder to swap slats in.
The main cost of the water table is the 1/8” plate. The time and hassle of welding the entire thing isn’t worth it if I don’t have to.
I am adding a center slat holder offset to have bent slats I was just too lazy to draw it.
The slat holder will be held in place by supports on either side of the walls of the water table. The Langmuir slat holder is far too flimsy and bends with little effort.
The slats will also only be 1.5” so they can be easily sorted out of flat stock.
DB9. It’s a custom cable with 4 conductor 22 awg from what I remember. Most of your DB9 extension cables out there are going to be 9 conductor 26 or 28 awg. Might work. Might not. And the wire is AWM/MTW that comes on the cf.
If you are extending them and keeping the original connectors on the electronics enclosure then I would just cut the cable and extended it.
Great thanks. In that case extending it will probably be the simplest option. I am guessing it only needs to extend by 2 feet tops.
Here is the updated design with the electronics enclosure accounted for as well as plates to mount standard 3" casters to.
With 3" casters the table is the same height as my welding bench which is a bit higher than I wanted it but the casters were an afterthought.
I opted to mount the electronics in that spot because the table is going against a wall and currently it is a complete pain to access the box on my crossfire essentially having to crawl under the machine. I want to have easy access to turn it on and off and unplug cables. The electronics will be held to the mounting plate with a machine screw and nut rather than the sheet metal screws.
The last thing to figure out is the arm for the plasma hose. I am going to assume it wont be long enough to successfully reach the entire table without the hose dragging. I am also going to figure out a better means of holding the hose/cable than the velcro.
$225 bent to shape in 11g steel. I will have To TIG weld the 4 seams at the corners.
It will either be powdercoated or bed lined. Leaning towards powder because bed liner is a rough surface and may prove difficult to clean.
I made the table 2.5” high, 50x27.5. It will have 1/4” clearance from the carriage on the gantry with a higher capacity than the stock Langmuir table.
The stock table has slats taller than the pan to allow for the overhang of large material. I shouldn’t need that with the 2x4 size so I opted to have higher sidewalls to fill the water higher.
I may be doing this in the near future as I would LOVE ago have double, if not triple the travel in either axis. Mind sharing where you got the lead screw and nuts? Possibly some part numbers as well?
If by either axis you mean one direction or the other, you really can’t extend the X axis. The unsupported gantry arm would need a guide rail at the distal end and a table that size will need a z axis controller.
When the entire build is done and I know everything works, I will release a full set of plans and instructions to build it with where to buy everything. I don’t want to release anything until I know it works.
im for sure interested in converting mine to 2x4 and making a new frame to add some structure to it… i get 2x4 sheets from the metal yard as they stock them… it would be awesome if those pieces didnt have to overhang
